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Routes in (1) Northeast Face

European vacation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Evolution Theory T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Freedom's Just Another Word for Nothing Left to Lose T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Good Ol' Days, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawks Nest S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Nothing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leper Messiah S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost in Space S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lycra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Master of Puppets S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Vacation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orion S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Risky Pass S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Season's Change S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky Dive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Snibble Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Struggle Within, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
White Satin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Dave McRae and Jazmyn Cotrufello, 8/27/2015
Page Views: 839 total, 34/month
Shared By: Dave McRae on Nov 1, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Tough second clip for shorties, crux moves on either side of the last bolt. Like Orion to the right, this face currently suffers from a slight case of leprosy. Tread lightly.

"Time for lust, time for lies
Time to kiss your life goodbye
Bow to Leper Messiah"
-Metallica, Leper Messiah

Location

Second bolted route to the right of the King Nothing chimney. Third bolted route left of Asterisk Pass.

Protection

10 bolts to chain anchors. If using a 60 meter rope, tie a knot in the end to lower off.

Photos

Calvin Landrus
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Calvin Landrus   Bend, OR
  5.10b
All four of these routes are worth doing. I enjoyed Leper the Messiah that best. I wouldn't say there's a lot of loose stuff but more likely small nubbins will breakoff until they get climbed more. Sep 18, 2017
Carl Schaefer
Boulder, CO
5.10b
Carl Schaefer   Boulder, CO
5.10b
Good fun! The start looks bold but is straightforward, at least for a 5'11" or taller. Overall the route seemed 10a until the last two bolts, then 10b. There's still loose rock on this face, be careful... Jul 17, 2017
Dave McRae  
 
Thanks for the feedback bbuker. This climb originally felt more like .10d to me. As with the climbs on either side of it, Leper Messiah gets cleaner, more solid, and overall easier with each ascent. A handy little two finger pocket seems to have popped up out of nowhere to assist in clipping the last bolt. It's not manufactured, just newly discovered and cleaned. Give yourself credit for the .10c tick, and expect Leper Messiah to get cleaner and more solid as time goes on. Feb 24, 2016
bbuker
 
bbuker  
 
I had the pleasure of on-sighting this one within a couple weeks of it going up. Climbing straight up the bolt line and clipping at chest level felt all of 10c to me, especially at the last bolt. But with the lack of chalk marks I was probably missing something. Regardless, a very fun sustained climb. Be prepared for a constant rain of pebbles when belaying. Feb 16, 2016
Dave McRae  
 
Erik, If you clipped all the bolts and made it to the anchor, I'd say you were on route. The easiest sequence for Leper Messiah shares a few holds with Orion from one-third to mid-height. Thanks for leaving a comment. Way to get after it! Nov 8, 2015
On the final stretch, is the "proper" move to bank right & sidle left along the crack ledge to the anchor? I sort of felt I'd cheated myself out of the true crux by doing this afterwards.

Because it's new & "the" sequence isn't chalked, made for an interesting onsight... At times I felt like I was almost over onto Orion before cutting back left.

Love me this nubbin crawling though! Nov 4, 2015