Type: Trad, Aid, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: 1969 - John Marshall & John Haek
Page Views: 3,763 total · 18/month
Shared By: corvegas on Feb 25, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description Suggest change

A true Smith classic, really solid old school 5.9, a bit of rotten rock, small runouts and a little bit of aid. There are two different options for pitch 1.

P1 5.6 30' - This is the original party's line but not the best option. Climb up a left leaning ramp/gully to an old bolt belay.

P1 Alt. 5.9 90' - Climb a sport pitch starting in the same location as the original line. 7 or 8 clips get you to a two bolt belay.

P2 5.7R 70' - From either the original or alternative pitch 1 anchors, head up and right and enter the chimney/groove. Trash up this rotten delight plugging cams up to 8" wide where possible. Exit up a ramp trending right before it gets too steep and end at a large belay ledge with two new bolts.

P3 5.8 C1 60' - From the belay traverse the bolt ladder to the left on new bolts to and awkward exit move (nuts helpful) into some chossy stone. Head up left to a belay ledge with two bolts. 2nd should follow by aiding which would be easier than jugging.

P4 5.7 120' - Power over the bulge and follow the mostly solid left trending ramp to a 2 bolt anchor beneath the P5 roof.

P5 5.10a 140' - Move up the block and follow the crack thru the roof. Step around the corner and voila here is the 80' of corner crack. Starting as a slab corner it progressively gets steeper as one goes. The crack varies from hands to fists to tips and finishes with an awkward wide exit on to a ledge. Follow the easy way up for 30' to a 2 bolt belay.

P6 5.9 110' - Continue up a slab to a steep well protected step and corner. A short rising traverse to the right leads one into easier ground and to the summit where there are three bolted anchors.

Location Suggest change

The route begins to the left of White Satin following the obvious left trending system to the top. Starts at a Juniper tree.

Descent: Walk off

Protection Suggest change

Double cams #0.5 to #3 and a #4
Set of small & med nuts