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Routes in (1) Northeast Face

European vacation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Evolution Theory T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Freedom's Just Another Word for Nothing Left to Lose T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Good Ol' Days, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawks Nest S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Nothing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leper Messiah S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost in Space S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lycra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Master of Puppets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Vacation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orion S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Risky Pass S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Season's Change S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky Dive S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Snibble Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Struggle Within, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
White Satin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, Aid, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: 1969 - John Marshall & John Haek
Page Views: 2,057 total · 15/month
Shared By: corvegas on Feb 25, 2007 with updates from Topher Dabrowski
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

A true Smith classic, really solid old school 5.9, a bit of rotten rock, small runouts and a little bit of aid. There are two different options for pitch 1.

P1 5.6 30' - This is the original party's line but not the best option. Climb up a left leaning ramp/gully to an old bolt belay.

P1 Alt. 5.9 90' - Climb a sport pitch starting in the same location as the original line. 7 or 8 clips get you to a two bolt belay.

P2 5.7R 70' - From either the original or alternative pitch 1 anchors, head up and right and enter the chimney/groove. Trash up this rotten delight plugging cams up to 8" wide where possible. Exit up a ramp trending right before it gets too steep and end at a large belay ledge with two new bolts.

P3 5.8 C1 60' - From the belay traverse the bolt ladder to the left on new bolts to and awkward exit move (nuts helpful) into some chossy stone. Head up left to a belay ledge with two bolts. 2nd should follow by aiding which would be easier than jugging.

P4 5.7 120' - Power over the bulge and follow the mostly solid left trending ramp to a 2 bolt anchor beneath the P5 roof.

P5 5.10a 140' - Move up the block and follow the crack thru the roof. Step around the corner and voila here is the 80' of corner crack. Starting as a slab corner it progressively gets steeper as one goes. The crack varies from hands to fists to tips and finishes with an awkward wide exit on to a ledge. Follow the easy way up for 30' to a 2 bolt belay.

P6 5.9 110' - Continue up a slab to a steep well protected step and corner. A short rising traverse to the right leads one into easier ground and to the summit where there are three bolted anchors.

Location

The route begins to the left of White Satin following the obvious left trending system to the top. Starts at a Juniper tree.

Descent: Walk off

Protection

Double cams #0.5 to #3 and a #4
Set of small & med nuts
Aiders

Photos

Lady Tapas
Portland, OR
 
Lady Tapas   Portland, OR
 
This is snibble tower and according to the guide book its a 5.10a A1 R. It was a fun climb but lots of sketchy rock. Perfect shade from noon on! Sep 11, 2013
Derrick Peppers
Terrebonne, OR
 
Derrick Peppers   Terrebonne, OR
 
what is sniffle tower? also, the 10a first pitch is pretty acurrate to other 10as in the park. Oct 31, 2013
One of the "old" bolts on the aid traverse popped off on December 24. This section is now a little harder than A0. Could probably be freed in the 11s, and could probably be aided by someone comfortable/skilled with shaky aid. Jan 7, 2014
Sam Bedell
Bend, OR
  5.9+ C1-2 R
Sam Bedell   Bend, OR
  5.9+ C1-2 R
As of Sunday 4/10/16 the 4th bolt on the bolt ladder is still missing. There are holds allowing you to free climb up and clip the next bolt, or I guess you could do some sketchy hooking for a couple moves. I would say that the moves are 5.11ish between the bolts, perfectly doable and still a better option than the original free variation up the choss chimney.

The 4th class last pitch has many variations. I chose to cut back right and go straight up to the summit: low 5th R/X choss.

The guidebook calls the first pitch 10a and while it is easy for that grade, 5.8 seems like a bit of a sandbag also. Either way the real challenge and fun lies above. Apr 11, 2016
Topher Dabrowski
Portland, OR
  5.10a C1 PG13
Topher Dabrowski   Portland, OR
  5.10a C1 PG13
As of May 8th, 2017 all the bolts on the aid pitch are now replaced. Also all the belay stations are now all bolted and a new 6th pitch of climbing will take one to the top of the tower. The descend from there is much easier with one short rap and a walk to the rap anchors. Thanks to Ben Priestly for his dedication to get this route in order.

There is a fixed cam on the crux pitch and this is the only place that a larger #4 Camalot would be useful. Otherwise take doubles and long slings as this pitch can eat gear. One other thing to note, as you turn the corner into the stellar crack/corner watch the rope doesn't get stuck in the slot, it'll create bad drag. One thing that will help is to climb and place gear on the left side of the block as you start out on this pitch. May 10, 2017

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