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Routes in (1) Northeast Face

European vacation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Evolution Theory T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Freedom's Just Another Word for Nothing Left to Lose T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Good Ol' Days, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawks Nest S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Higher Messiah S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
King Nothing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leper Messiah S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost in Space S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lycra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Master of Puppets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Vacation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orion S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Risky Pass S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Season's Change S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky Dive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Snibble Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Struggle Within, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
White Satin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 600 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: Thomas Emde
Page Views: 173 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jon Rhoderick on May 10, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This is a variation to European Vacation that climbs better rock in the middle of the tower. Start with the Euro start or test your mettle with the Eye of the Beholder start, which can be linked into the second pitch.

P3: The topo in the guidebook is incorrect, this is a mixed pitch. Head towards a bolt about 30 feet above the belay, it may be possible to place gear in the crack to the left, or a block can be slung. After clipping the bolt head up to a second bolt just above the roof, placing gear to reach it. From here to the top of the tower no trad gear is needed. 5.10b

P4: Follow the bolts, backcleaning the second and extending what you can. The crux is brief and hits at the two closely spaced bolts with an overhang above. Continue up a slab covered in lichen to the 5th pitch belay anchor for Euro Vacation.

Location

Starts on Eye of the Beholder or Struggle Within.

Protection

12 quickdraws or so if you're linking pitches 1&2 or 5&6, single rack from .4-1 for the one mixed pitch.

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