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Routes in (1) Northeast Face

European vacation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Evolution Theory T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Freedom's Just Another Word for Nothing Left to Lose T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Good Ol' Days, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawks Nest S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Nothing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leper Messiah S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost in Space S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lycra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Master of Puppets S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Vacation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orion S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Risky Pass S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Season's Change S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky Dive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Snibble Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Struggle Within, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
White Satin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,204 total, 28/month
Shared By: JohnK on Jun 28, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

Get high above the Crooked River with this fun three pitch route. The original first pitch (5.6) is a low quality grunt but pitch two (5.7) to the small belay cove and the last pitch (5.7) make this climb worth doing.

Location

The start is at the base of the heart shaped rock that sits to the left of Asterisk Pass. Either rap off the west side on hard to find rap anchors or 'walk' off by scrambling down a west side gully.

Protection

Gear to 3 inches. Be sure to know how to build anchors as the belay cove requires some skill to create a safe anchor.
Agree that clipping the 1/4" bolt on P3 before entering the last chimney keeps the rope out of the pea gravel. Several options for the final belay with small gear. For the second sloping belay, wouldn't recommend relying only on gear touching the triangular block, but the crack up and left takes a #4 C4, and probably a #3.
Having a couple of #4 cams is nice to protect pitch 3, especially to protect the belayer leading out.
It's easy to get focused on the crack, but there are lots of hands and feet on the faces, so look around. Apr 30, 2017
There is no anchor atop P3, but a stance belay from the top of the finishing chimney is more than solid. Rope doesn't drag too much if you extend from the bolt by the scree slope. I wasn't comfortable belaying from the ledge near the bolt. Wear helmets and bring enough gear - I was grateful for a set of large hexes. Nov 23, 2016
nicktucker
Portland, OR
  5.7
nicktucker   Portland, OR
  5.7
P1 is a funky chimney that's not very well protected (it has bolts, but if you stay in the chimney, they just create a lot of extra drag). P2 was fun, but the belay station at the top of P2 is turrible! Built anchors with two 1's and a .75, but you're sitting on a kneebar. There's also an old sling up there you could use as a backup.

p3 was definitely the money pitch, and probably the coolest move on the route is pulling into the crack from the tiny belay station. The last belay station is a choss, shit pile, so be careful or you could very well rain rocks on your follower. Fun route despite the questionable belay stations. Rap off Wherever I May Roam Jun 30, 2015
Summer Robin  
 
This climb was so funky.

P1- what a slog in that chimney. Agree that it's unprotectable.

P2. Kind of okay moves into what may be the least comfortable belay I've ever set up. That gigantic block in the back of the cave is detached! I used a #3 and 4 above and got a smaller piece in below to create an anchor. Definitely took some ingenuity.

P3. Kind of somewhat enjoyable moves to a chosspile at the top. I didn't see a spot to build an anchor, so I climbed to the chimney to the left and busted out a hip belay, which ended up being bomber if not reallllly rope-draggey. Is there a bolted anchor above this?

Definitely a strange climb- there are much, much better 3 pitch 5.7's in the park to take family and friends on! May 26, 2015
Ashort
Las Vegas, NV
Ashort   Las Vegas, NV
There is a large detached block in the belay hole, the whole thing moves when touching it. The anchor set up in the hole is not simple, not good for beginners. Probably best to just skip the belay hole and combine pitches 2 and 3 if you have enough gear.

On pitch 1 the 5.7 face (King Nothing) is a nice alternative to the chimney. Apr 3, 2014
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
To avoid bombing your partner and others with gravel atop P3, (the last real pitch) clip the bolt high on the right side of the ledge (keeps your rope off the gravel and acts as a directional) and carefully walk the edge of the ledge to the left. Most, if not all, of the gravel is uphill of the edge and is frightening. Staying low will keep you on solid rock all the way to cracks (small to medium gear) on the left. Oct 25, 2013
Russell Fogle
Boise, ID
  5.7
Russell Fogle   Boise, ID
  5.7
The belay from the top of P3 is a gravel field, make sure that your follower has a helmet and glasses! We got buzzed with some large rocks from a party rapping a route above and to the right of us, be careful and stand close to the wall. Oct 21, 2013
Alex Mitchell
Cincinnati, OH
Alex Mitchell   Cincinnati, OH
Would be such a great climb if it wasn't covered in smelly nasty bird crap. May 27, 2013
To get off Sky Chimney or Ridge with one 60m, uphill from the top of Sky Ridge is a rappel station off the backside. 3 raps get you down. Oct 20, 2012
K Baumgartner
  5.7
K Baumgartner  
  5.7
Concur that chimney is awkward and unprotectable.

Brought two up to the P2 belay "ledge", which was a bit awkward, but manageable.

Watch out for serious rock fall potential at the top of P3 at the bomber legs.

Two 70m ropes got us to the bottom. Two clueless climbers told us we could rap with one 60m--what were they thinking. Aug 4, 2012
Naz Ahmed
Herndon, Virginia
Naz Ahmed   Herndon, Virginia
p1 has bolts, if you stay on the ramp atop of the large flake; otherwise chimney is a 25' awkward unprotectable grunt.

Pay heed to warning about the belay stance atop pitch 2, there was some tat when we did it, best to probably build anchor at the crack on the left of the belay. Lots of birds nest along this route.

Pitch 3 goes to a scary crumbly ledge, then it's a scramble to the top. This is adventure climbing, with great exposure. Two 70m ropes tied together will get you to the ground off the shuts of Sky Ridge. May 28, 2012