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Routes in (1) Northeast Face
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Damage, Inc S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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European Vacation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Evolution Theory T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Freedom's Just Another Word for Nothing Left to Lose T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Good Ol' Days, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hawks Nest S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Higher Messiah S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Kevin’s Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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King Nothing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Leper Messiah S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lost in Space S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lycra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Master of Puppets S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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No Vacation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Orion S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Risky Pass S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Season's Change S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sky Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sky Dive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sky Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Snibble Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 |
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Struggle Within, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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White Satin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Mark Deffenbaugh, Jim Ablao |
| Page Views: | 16,949 total · 109/month |
| Shared By: | Sean Ferrell on Jun 1, 2010 |
| Admins: | Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
What!? A four pitch 5.10 sport route at Smith? This place is turning into a multi-pitch sport destination. I know of few other places in the US that have such a high concentration of multi-pitch sport bolted routes than the Smith Rock Group. That said, there's always something a little spicy about them, and this route is no exception.
An easy approach, great bolting, good rock (except the last pitch), and reasonable moves make Lost in Space one of the more accessible routes that tops out the formation.
All bolt counts are approximate.
Pitch 1 (8 bolts): 5.6. Follow the bolts up the chimney and onto the fin to the left. Pass the first anchors, and belay on top of the big ledge.
Pitch 2 (6 bolts): 10b. Crank sloping edges up a vertical/slightly overhanging wall for ten feet, and finish on an easy slab. Fun pitch. Give it to the more thuggish partner.
Pitch 3 (10 bolts): 10a. The best pitch of the route, I thought. Connive your way through tricky edges for a long way. Nicely bolted, fun moves, and most of the rock is quite solid. Enjoy the nice belay ledge at the top, and maybe set yourself up so you are sitting under the overhang. This will help protect you from rockfall on the last pitch.
Pitch 4 (10 bolts): 5.9. Starting this pitch, you think, "Oh, this isn't so bad." Just give it time- you will change your mind. Thankfully, the bolt line meanders, so you aren't climbing directly above your partner for the whole thing. There is still a chance of braining your partner, though, so be careful, and everyone needs a helmet.
Just a thought, it might be possible to cheat right after the third pitch into the gully. You would want to belay this procedure, and it could be completely heinous. As dirty as the final pitch is, I think it's worth it so that you get to top out.
Even with the last pitch detractor, this route is more than worth doing. Read the next sentence with a Vincent Price voice impression: Have fun, but look out for loose rock, or you may find yourself... Lost in Space!
An easy approach, great bolting, good rock (except the last pitch), and reasonable moves make Lost in Space one of the more accessible routes that tops out the formation.
All bolt counts are approximate.
Pitch 1 (8 bolts): 5.6. Follow the bolts up the chimney and onto the fin to the left. Pass the first anchors, and belay on top of the big ledge.
Pitch 2 (6 bolts): 10b. Crank sloping edges up a vertical/slightly overhanging wall for ten feet, and finish on an easy slab. Fun pitch. Give it to the more thuggish partner.
Pitch 3 (10 bolts): 10a. The best pitch of the route, I thought. Connive your way through tricky edges for a long way. Nicely bolted, fun moves, and most of the rock is quite solid. Enjoy the nice belay ledge at the top, and maybe set yourself up so you are sitting under the overhang. This will help protect you from rockfall on the last pitch.
Pitch 4 (10 bolts): 5.9. Starting this pitch, you think, "Oh, this isn't so bad." Just give it time- you will change your mind. Thankfully, the bolt line meanders, so you aren't climbing directly above your partner for the whole thing. There is still a chance of braining your partner, though, so be careful, and everyone needs a helmet.
Just a thought, it might be possible to cheat right after the third pitch into the gully. You would want to belay this procedure, and it could be completely heinous. As dirty as the final pitch is, I think it's worth it so that you get to top out.
Even with the last pitch detractor, this route is more than worth doing. Read the next sentence with a Vincent Price voice impression: Have fun, but look out for loose rock, or you may find yourself... Lost in Space!
Location
Starts just left of Asterisk Pass, in front of a big jutting boulder, in a large right-facing chimney. Easiest approach is to go to Asterisk Pass, and then traverse left along the base past White Satin, etc.
I think the easiest descent is to do three single rope (60m) rappels down Wherever I May Roam. Top out, and find the descent gully, which is just below the top. It leads towards Asterisk Pass. Climb down this 3rd-4th class gully for 50-100 feet (rock, brush), and look for new bolts with long chains. This will be on the opposite side of the formation from what you've been climbing. The second station is also an anchor for the route, and is not a full rope length from the top. From there, it's just two raps to the ground, and it shouldn't be too much trouble to find them.
I think the easiest descent is to do three single rope (60m) rappels down Wherever I May Roam. Top out, and find the descent gully, which is just below the top. It leads towards Asterisk Pass. Climb down this 3rd-4th class gully for 50-100 feet (rock, brush), and look for new bolts with long chains. This will be on the opposite side of the formation from what you've been climbing. The second station is also an anchor for the route, and is not a full rope length from the top. From there, it's just two raps to the ground, and it shouldn't be too much trouble to find them.
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