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Routes in (1) Northeast Face

European vacation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Evolution Theory T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Freedom's Just Another Word for Nothing Left to Lose T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Good Ol' Days, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawks Nest S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Nothing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leper Messiah S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost in Space S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lycra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Master of Puppets S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Vacation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orion S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Risky Pass S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Season's Change S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky Dive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Snibble Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Struggle Within, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
White Satin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mark Deffenbaugh, Jim Ablao
Page Views: 8,949 total, 98/month
Shared By: ferrells on Jun 1, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

What!? A four pitch 5.10 sport route at Smith? This place is turning into a multi-pitch sport destination. I know of few other places in the US that have such a high concentration of multi-pitch sport bolted routes than the Smith Rock Group. That said, there's always something a little spicy about them, and this route is no exception.
An easy approach, great bolting, good rock (except the last pitch), and reasonable moves make Lost in Space one of the more accessible routes that tops out the formation.
All bolt counts are approximate.
Pitch 1 (8 bolts): 5.6. Follow the bolts up the chimney and onto the fin to the left. Pass the first anchors, and belay on top of the big ledge.
Pitch 2 (6 bolts): 10b. Crank sloping edges up a vertical/slightly overhanging wall for ten feet, and finish on an easy slab. Fun pitch. Give it to the more thuggish partner.
Pitch 3 (10 bolts): 10a. The best pitch of the route, I thought. Connive your way through tricky edges for a long way. Nicely bolted, fun moves, and most of the rock is quite solid. Enjoy the nice belay ledge at the top, and maybe set yourself up so you are sitting under the overhang. This will help protect you from rockfall on the last pitch.
Pitch 4 (10 bolts): 5.9. Starting this pitch, you think, "Oh, this isn't so bad." Just give it time- you will change your mind. Thankfully, the bolt line meanders, so you aren't climbing directly above your partner for the whole thing. There is still a chance of braining your partner, though, so be careful, and everyone needs a helmet.

Just a thought, it might be possible to cheat right after the third pitch into the gully. You would want to belay this procedure, and it could be completely heinous. As dirty as the final pitch is, I think it's worth it so that you get to top out.

Even with the last pitch detractor, this route is more than worth doing. Read the next sentence with a Vincent Price voice impression: Have fun, but look out for loose rock, or you may find yourself... Lost in Space!

Location

Starts just left of Asterisk Pass, in front of a big jutting boulder, in a large right-facing chimney. Easiest approach is to go to Asterisk Pass, and then traverse left along the base past White Satin, etc.
I think the easiest descent is to do three single rope (60m) rappels down Wherever I May Roam. Top out, and find the descent gully, which is just below the top. It leads towards Asterisk Pass. Climb down this 3rd-4th class gully for 50-100 feet (rock, brush), and look for new bolts with long chains. This will be on the opposite side of the formation from what you've been climbing. The second station is also an anchor for the route, and is not a full rope length from the top. From there, it's just two raps to the ground, and it shouldn't be too much trouble to find them.

Protection

Bolted, with bolted anchors. It would have been nice to have a few shoulder length, and a double length slings for stray bolts and awkward belays.
Helmets.
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b/c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b/c
FYI - As of 10/27/2017 the anchor atop the second pitch is not properly equipped to rappel. There are two links attached to the bolts, but they are flat against the rock and would be hell to pull a rope through. They need another set of links attached. 5' to the right is what looked like the remnants of a nice, two bolt anchor with proper rap rings... but one of the bolts is missing and in its place a hole. Oct 27, 2017
Richard Denker
Portland OR
Richard Denker   Portland OR
A few comments on the route:
1. End the first pitch at the highest point of the Perch, next to a detach boulder (a short pinnacle about 3m tall).
2. Yes, the slab on pitch 2 is easier than the 5.10b start, but it is still not a gimme.
3. Pitch 3 is excellent and very sustained.
4. The rock quality of the 4th pitch is not as good as the prior two pitches, but it is not as bad as stated. We found the quality of the rock to be reasonable, we had no nubbins breaking off and no loose shit to contend with. However, I would still recommend a helmet. And, to understand my perspective please note I am more of an alpine climber and I am used to questionable rock high on a mountain peak.
5. If you still do not want to do the 4th pitch it is not necessary to “cheat” by climbing into the gully to the right. You can easily escape by rappelling diagonally to the right into the same gully, ending the rap near the top of White Satin.
6. If you choose to rap the west side (I do not recommend this on a busy weekend) is started my walking around the rim of a bowl to the west side where you will find the top of Wherever I May Roam. There do a short rap into the bowl. From there find the top of the three rappel of the west side rap line. This rap line starts with the top anchors of Earthtone (thankfully not often done). The second rappel ends at the third anchor of Wherever I May Roam, may be crowded. For a 60m rope the third rap scary, the rope barely reaches the awkward sloping ledge anchor. I suggest 70m rope for this rap. Also, this anchor is the top anchor for Bits and Pieces first pitch, Eathtone first pitch anchor and the top of Confused and Disfigured. The final rap pretty much follows the climbs lines of Stained, Confused and Disfigured and Earthtone. These lower pitches are popular with beginners and those interested in improving their climbing skills. On a weekend you will most likely be sharing small anchors with other climbers.
7. It is better to walk off. It will take you slightly longer than the west side raps, but you will not be entangled with other climbers. Sep 27, 2017
Franck Vee
  5.10b/c
Franck Vee  
  5.10b/c
I think it's a well worth climb really. Route-finding is relatively easy (at least I didn't have a whole lot of multi-pitch experience and found it easy), it's well-bolted (by Smith standards, though not a gym). Belay ledges are decent - 2nd one is perhaps the least comfortable.

Regarding the 4th pitch:
- No, it wouldn't be a route if this was straight off the ground.
- There is loose-ish rock in places
- You never HAVE to pull on sketchy rock to do a move. If you approach this like you would a single pitch sport climb (e.g. anything I see I can yank on), then your approach is wrong, the rock quality isn't the real problem. You can always make 5.9 moves on acceptable rock for that pitch. If you unexplicably went up sustained 10b down below and feel like you need to avoid a 5.9 (if that) move on decent rock by pulling a 5.7 moves on crumbly one, you're doing it wrong.

So by all means top out - the view is well worth the unremarkable climbing of the last pitch. Plus you can simply walk off.

The walk off is easy to do - from the top of the climb, you simply hike/scramble a 3rd class going up, leave Asterix pass behind you. Once you're over the top of that scramble, you'll find a trail that keeps going in the same direction, eventually veering right into well-defined switch backs. This will eventually turn around & head towards Asterix pass (so you've done a U turn at that point from the top of the climb). Seems faster, easier & safer to me than the 3 rappel, so I see little reasons for those. Unless you want to practice rope management & rappeling off routes for other projects where you don't have a walk-off option. Jul 16, 2017
mcdo2441
Portland
  5.10b/c
mcdo2441   Portland
  5.10b/c
Wear the damn helmet!

Also make sure on the last rap to the ground you use the lower set of anchors, or its going to be a stretch! May 14, 2017
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.10d
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.10d
After hearing rumors of dangerously loose rock on P4, I rapped in and did some cleaning. There is certainly loose rock if you stray from the bolted line, (there's less of it now) but if you were pulling on the flakes I removed, you were doing it wrong. The bolted line is almost entirely clean with only two small edges that I could see as being suspect. If you get scared and gripped and try to wander off route to avoid a harder move, expect to climb some choss. Better to just pull the 5.9 moves. (you did climb sandy 10b to get there after all)

Additionally, as is posted elsewhere in the site, by far the fastest and safest descent option for anything on this formation is the walk off to the south. From the top of Lost in Space, scramble uphill until you can 4th class south through the various towers of the Smith Rock Group. Eventually you end up on a large plateau with a trail going SSW. This will get you to the pass in 5 minutes of easy walking. Again this is faster, safer, and easier than rappelling. Apr 18, 2017
Laura Bauer
  5.10b/c
Laura Bauer  
  5.10b/c
Nothing to add that hasn't already been said, except to say that the topo in the Watts guidebook makes it look like you pass three sets of anchors on the first pitch, however I believe this is wrong. You should pass two sets of anchors and then stop at the third at a very large belay platform. Nov 14, 2016
20 kN

  5.10b/c
20 kN    
  5.10b/c
If this climb where four single pitch lines on the ground, the only one worth doing would be pitch three. Pitch one is chossy and you get to enjoy figuring out which of the eight belay stations you're supposed to stop at. Pitch two is pretty much a one-move wonder off a boulder, and then pitch three is actually fairly fun in that it's sustained and well off the deck.

All in all, I dident feel like this climb was very memorable, largely due to the rock quality. Maybe it would get two stars if I could skip the first pitch. You're better off doing Wherever I May Roam on the backside of the formation (which is the rappel route for this line). It's easier, but more fun.

You can descend with a single 60m with three raps by rapping off the backside of the formation. Once you're on the route, most of the belays are not setup for bailing, so you'll have to leave biners if you call it quits. Sep 19, 2016
Start of P2 is very bouldery, harder than I'd expect from a 10c. But the bolts are close, so it goes ~10a french-free.

There are 2 anchors at the top of P3. One has 2 good bolts but no chains. The other has 1 bolt with a chain and a hole where the other bolt used to be.

P4 seemed ok. Some loose stuff, easily avoidable. Easier than 10a, I thought.

P4 anchor is made of thick bolts, the kind one could rappel from if one had to. But pulling the rope could bring down loose rocks, so I suspect that anchor was not intended for rappelling.

Overall, it feels like attempts to make it possible to rap the route have been made and given up on.

We got down by following a good trail to the top of Wherever I May Roam and doing that rappel. The trail is horseshoe-shaped - it first goes south, then west, then north. The final section of this trail is exposed and ends in a very exposed but easy short downclimb. Jun 28, 2016
Great climb, especially the 3rd pitch. 2nd pitch is a short traversing 2 move 10c rather painful crimp. the 3rd pitch is glorious, really doesn't seem like a move over 5.9, but continuous and steep in space. Well worth doing. Last pitch has a scary block you have to step on, but its still there so probably will be for a while longer. Aug 30, 2015
nickehman
Fresno, CA
  5.10c
nickehman   Fresno, CA
  5.10c
What a fun climb! Route-finding on the first pitch wasn't obvious, but straight forward after the ledge. Second pitch was a bit of a wake up call, but the hard moves ended quickly. Third pitch was the money pitch and worth any imperfections of the route. And the fourth wasn't so bad! I expected much worse choss than I found up there. Maybe it's cleaned up a bit. Overall a worthy adventurous climb with a sweet topout. Sep 9, 2013
Muscrat    
The first 3, fun. The 4th....unless you like choss, or really really want to top out, rap climber right to the gulley and wherever i may roam rap station and go climb Zion. The fourth took us as long as any pitch, it is tap tap, pray, tap tap, pull, tap tap, pray. Loose is not the word, and the scariest part is that if you pull off large, and there is large loose here, there are climbers 300' below. Just not worth putting them in harms way. May 17, 2013
Ming
  5.10b
Ming  
  5.10b
I would like the FA for putting up such a nice route - it went across the best possible rock you can find on that face (we went to that area as a party of 4 - the other two people did Season's Change and was cleaning off plate size flakes).

Here's what I thought of the route:

1st pitch - 5.7 easy to miss the bolts next to your feet at the traverse. Rock look solid but I still manage to pull a mug-size hold off right at the beginning of the traverse and took a fall when I was following. It's the only fall I took on the whole route. So please be careful, loose rock can be anywhere.

2nd pitch - 5.10b or c - depending on how thuggy you are. Pure gym like pull hard move, then finish with fun delicate traverse and fun face climbing

3rd pitch - 5.10b? I thought the moves require a lot of thought and care as a lot of things has already been pulled off - and a few more holds look like they are about to go. But it is definitely the best pitch of the route and really fun. Finish off on a nice ledge for belay.

4th pitch - 5.7 It's very rotten rock and it crumbles everywhere, but with some care it's not that dangerous (more like ankle twisters than ankle breakers) as you go from ledge to ledge.

To top out feels awesome and one of the best adventure climbs you can have at Smith. Jan 30, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10+
Route finding on the first pitch is a little tricky. Go up into the chimney, and exit out left. Climb the face into the next gully, just below the start of White Satin/Sky Chimney. Exit left on more bolts. Continue up til it flattens out, clip a bolt on the wall and at your feet (use runners on these, or skip em), and use the bolts below another flake/chimney.

The overhanging moves up to the traverse on the 2nd pitch are burly. Definitely at least .10c. There are a few tricky sequences on the longer, more exposed third pitch, but it's .10a. Super, super fun! Final pitch is ALMOST worth topping out... but my mind was made when, as I was following, I hesitated amongst the choss to locate a solid hold. Thought I found one, matched, and nearly brought down a head-sized chunk. Not a good place to be launching mini-boulders.

Walk off from the top, or descend 30 feet from the 3rd pitch to the top-out area between Wherever I May Roam and White Satin and Sky Ridge. Rap WIMR or double-rope from The Platform. May 1, 2012
John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.10b
John Hayes   Bend, OR
  5.10b
I struggled to give this route even a single star. The best pitch is the 3rd--just be careful what you crank on. Some of the holds are bomber and some of the smaller ones will blow off. The top of the last pitch is rotten, loose junk. The best part of this route is the view from the top of the ridge (A+.) With so many quality routes at Smith, put this one at (or near) the bottom of your list. Sep 19, 2011
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b/c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b/c
3rd pitch is excellent, 2nd OK, and the rest not great. I think the crux on the 2nd pitch is pushing 10c as the holds break way...

If I do the route again, I think rapping off the top of the 3rd pitch (2 raps to the ledge) and climbing either the 11 arete below or 10b left of White Satin and then rapping down would make for a good day. Sep 18, 2011
Peter Rakowitz
Portland, OR
 
Peter Rakowitz   Portland, OR
 
I just climbed this today and the rock on pitch 4 is better then I thought it would be, but still less then stellar. It's definitely worth climbing the last pitch for the top out though. Apr 18, 2011
ferrells  
 
A cameo from one of our first ascentionists! I am honored. Apr 11, 2011
Thanks for such an awesome route description. Glad to see folks getting on some of the longer routes. Still a bit raw but I think its settling down closer to as good as its gonna get with a few more ascents. That whole side of the Smith Rock Group from Lost in Space to European Vacation has such good position and exposure with the Marsupials to Monkey Face and everything in between view of the park is pretty hard to beat anywhere. Jul 14, 2010