Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (1) Northeast Face

European vacation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Evolution Theory T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Freedom's Just Another Word for Nothing Left to Lose T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Good Ol' Days, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawks Nest S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Nothing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leper Messiah S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost in Space S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lycra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Master of Puppets S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Vacation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orion S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Risky Pass S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Season's Change S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky Dive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Snibble Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Struggle Within, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
White Satin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mark Deffenbaugh, Bryan Smith, Jim Ablao, Moira Armen (various pitches)
Page Views: 2,381 total, 25/month
Shared By: ferrells on Feb 21, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Season's Change is six pitches of exposed climbing on one of the least visited sections of Smith Rock. Expect long pitches of pebbling, with shiny new bolts everywhere, and only occasional run-outs.
As of now (early 2010), the route still suffers from poor rock. On the bright side, some sections of Smith feel as though they will never be clean, but this isn't one of them. With a dozen more ascents (or one ascent specifically for cleaning), this route will likely be solid, and completely amazing. Bring helmets, call "rock", and be comforted by the fact that almost all pitches wander a bit away from the belay. The first pitch may never be very good, but the rest should clean up nicely.
It was a mistake to climb this route in the winter without adequate clothing, but that was not clear until we were high on the wind-whipped wall and psychologically committed to finishing. Retreat was physically possible, but unthinkable.
For us, Season's Change was a formidable route, and worth the time. In better conditions, it may have been enjoyable, but the brutal conditions, and the necessity of rising to the boldness of the route were more than adequate substitutes for joy. A great adventure sport route, with the safety of modern hardware.

All bolt numbers are approximate - bring extra draws and a runner or two.
Pitch 1 (10a): 7 bolts. Make your way over a couple of big lumps, clip at 20 feet, and then execute a miserable traverse.
Pitch 2 (10b): 12 bolts. Step left from the belay, and then launch onto the long, pebbled face with a low and a high crux. The top of this pitch has the only completely seated belay. All others are hanging, or partially hanging.
Pitch 3 (10+/11-): 11 bolts. Straight above the last pitch, power your way through a series of tough moves on difficult to spot holds in a bulge, and then rejoice on jugs on the face above. Finally, work through one of the easier sections of climbing to the base of the fourth pitch. Watts gives this 10c, but the crux moves are harder than that.
There's another pitch that starts up the left side; ignore it and attack the bulge/overhang.
Pitch 4 (11b): 12 bolts. The crux pitch, and unfortunately, it isn't the cleanest. The crux is right off the belay, but it is fairly sustained for another fifty feet. Take care on the easier upper section - this is one of the dirtier parts of the whole cliff, and more than one hold exploded in my face.
If I remember right, there is also a pitch heading up left from the base of this pitch - take the line on the right.
Pitch 5 (10a): 4 bolts. A fun traverse on good rock, with a momentarily baffling crux at the end. Thankfully, the tight bolting makes for a stress-free follow. Awesome exposure!
Pitch 6 (10c): 12 bolts. Another long pitch of pebbling and edging, this pitch could really use some cleaning. The belay at the top is heavenly, with amazing views of the main area, monkey face, and beyond.

Location

The route is located on the northeast face of the Smith Rock formation, specifically, the chunk of stone between The Pedestal and the face that contains White Satin and Sky Ridge.
The easiest approach: hike past the main area, to the Pheonix buttress. At the Pheonix buttress, follow the cliffline back for a few hundred feet. The route starts vertically, and then on a leftward leaning flake in the center of the face described.
There are three routes on the face: a 5.9 start in a groovy sort of thing on the left, this one in the center, and a 10a R that starts in a crack on the right.

Descent: A couple options here. 1) Apparently, you can hike uphill, around the platform and arrowhead, and then scramble down a scree gully, then back to Asterisk Pass. We couldn't find this way.
2) Make you way downhill (3rd-4th class), back towards Sky Ridge, then look to your left (west) along the ridge for a rap anchor. This is the descent for "Wherever I May Roam". The first rappel passes a line of bolts, and then a pair of naked bolts. Go a little further to a pair of bolts with links, in a little nook in the rock. The second rappel can drop you to one of two sets of anchors (I am told). The ones on the left, on a small ramp, are 1/2 inch bolts. My partner tells me there are better bolts, with links, to the right. One more rappel takes you to the ground. Hike back to Asterisk Pass.

Protection

Bolts, and bolted belay anchors. A couple long slings will reduce rope drag on the occasional zigzag.
We used 48" slings to equalize anchors, as many are loaded from an angle.

Photos

- No Photos -
Richard Denker
Portland OR
Richard Denker   Portland OR
Did pitches 3 & 4 on 23-Sep-201 - the rock is cleaner then the MP route description has it. Good pitches but seems a little scary for the grade. After the 5.11b pitch we were done, so we escape to the right on some questionable rock to the 4th pitch of Lost In Space. Sep 27, 2017
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
The crux pitch (fourth) definitely has some garbage rock in one specific place, but it also has the best rock quality on the whole route for the majority of the pitch. (including the crux moves) Additionally, the garbage can be pretty easily climbed around on good rock-just don't grab the holds with the consistency of a sand-castle near the finish and you're fine. Apr 13, 2011
ferrells  
 
Yeah, MP doesn't allow you to categorize routes as "adventure sport" or "bolted", instead of "sport". There's a serious sort of flavor to all these bolted routes on the Smith Rock Group - pretty awesome. Glad to hear you got a good adventure out of it. Aug 8, 2010
Drew Peterson
  5.11b
Drew Peterson  
  5.11b
7/10 - as of our send this route is not clean. If anyone is above you on this wall expect rockfall. Before we even started we had a very close call from massive rockfall (seriously) that eventually ended up in the river. The first pitch is the worst, followed by the last pitch being almost equally as shitty. Every pitch has some choss, but it is bolted well. The crux pitch has some super fun moves with about 50' of good stone. We walked off by heading east and up over. Not just a "sport climb"... this route is pretty serious. I'm not sure I'd recommend it as a good rock climb, but it is an interesting Smith adventure. Jul 4, 2010