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Routes in (1) Northeast Face

European vacation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Evolution Theory T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Freedom's Just Another Word for Nothing Left to Lose T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Good Ol' Days, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hawks Nest S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
King Nothing S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leper Messiah S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost in Space S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lycra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Master of Puppets S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Vacation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orion S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Risky Pass S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Season's Change S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sky Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky Dive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sky Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Snibble Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Struggle Within, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
White Satin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,180 total, 44/month
Shared By: Mattyg on May 24, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

A proud line up the impressive NE Ridge of the Smith Rock Group, Skyridge takes a bold line on nubbins for almost 1/2 a pitch before the first bolt. Confidence and commitment is needed to get onto this climb, but the rest of the bolted first and second pitches are beautiful climbing, with a final pitch of hand traversing (gear to about 2") to finish near the top of the Smith Rock group.

Location

From the Asterisk Pass trail, head left (south) along the western side of the ridge until you find a spot for a shakey cam placement for the belayer. Climb begins on the west side, and moves to the east side of the ridge after a couple bolts, then directly up the ridge with stunning exposure. Final pitch hand traverse can be avoided by taking the "sky dive" variation, a few moves of bolted airy 5.10 to the top.

Protection

A FEW Bolts on the first pitch, but super runout at the start, with lots of exposure on either side of Asterisk Pass. Second pitch bolted, third pitch small nuts / cams (be sure to protect for second)
Frank F
Bend, OR
Frank F   Bend, OR
I think the 10c line that Crushin' referred to is actually Risky Pass. His point about staying on the west side is correct.

There are now more bolts on the top half of the 5.8 pitch than indicated in the topos in Watts' guide book. A stopper and a #3 or 4 camalot can be placed in the lower, "unprotected" 5.6 section. Aug 31, 2016
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
 
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
 
Make sure you stay on the right side (West) of the wall, if not you'll end up like me and doing the second pitch of Hawks Nest (10c). Apr 23, 2016
Richard Denker
Portland OR
Richard Denker   Portland OR
The 5.8 section of the first pitch is harder then most 5.9 at Smith Rock, it is certainly harder then Honey Pot and Phone Call From Satin, both rated 5.9.

I usually break up the first pitch at the semi-hanging belay. Before it is the unprotected 5.6 and just above it is the first bolt of the 5.8 face. Also for the runout top of the the 5.8 one or two cam in the .75 and 1 Camalot size can be useful. Sep 24, 2014
patrick kadel
  5.8+
patrick kadel  
  5.8+
Exciting climb. I think I climbed it correctly, started up the rotten arete where i placed two manky cams and then found some bolts heading right. I think the first two bolts are close together on easy rock, but then it got hard and the next bolt was up there. I wasted a lot of time looking for a 5.8 way up with no luck. I finally went up using a few thin and uncertain moves. Hardest 5.8 I've ever been on.

The hand traverse pitch was enjoyable and was a presently soft 5.7 pitch. I needed that after the first pitch. Aug 18, 2014
Ray Pinpillage
West Egg
Ray Pinpillage   West Egg
Look at White Satin for walk off beta. There are cairns marking the trail once you climb to the top of the gully from the belay. Rap'ing down WIMR is awful, especially where there are climbers on Stained. May 25, 2014
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
See Wherever I May Roam description for rappel beta. To walk off, hike and scramble up weaknesses/gullies to the south eventually passing the towers of the Smith Rock Group and following a rough trail through the grass along the top of the formation in a southerly direction. When you can see a continuous slope to the west, turn right (west) and descend towards the Crooked eventually ending up on the trail that runs underneath WIMR.

hillmap.com/m/ag1zfmhpbGxtY… Apr 22, 2014
Jason Chinchen
Bend, Oregon
Jason Chinchen   Bend, Oregon
What is the hike off or rappel beta? Would be helpful to include this kind of thing in the description... Apr 17, 2014
Josh Edwards
Bend, Oregon
  5.8
Josh Edwards   Bend, Oregon
  5.8
Don't know why this route gets the R rating. No bolt spacing that you wouldn't see on any other Smith routes. Maybe PG13 for the runout and poor rock quality to the first bolt, but there's a few spots to place some good nuts so it's safe. Great climb with a even better position. Don't let the R rating deter you from getting on this. Sep 19, 2013