Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,500 total · 48/month
Shared By: Mattyg on May 24, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

69 Opinions

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A proud line up the impressive NE Ridge of the Smith Rock Group, Skyridge takes a bold line on nubbins for almost 1/2 a pitch before the first bolt. Confidence and commitment is needed to get onto this climb, but the rest of the bolted first and second pitches are beautiful climbing, with a final pitch of hand traversing (gear to about 2") to finish near the top of the Smith Rock group.


From the Asterisk Pass trail, head left (south) along the western side of the ridge until you find a spot for a shakey cam placement for the belayer. Climb begins on the west side, and moves to the east side of the ridge after a couple bolts, then directly up the ridge with stunning exposure. Final pitch hand traverse can be avoided by taking the "sky dive" variation, a few moves of bolted airy 5.10 to the top.


A FEW Bolts on the first pitch, but super runout at the start, with lots of exposure on either side of Asterisk Pass. Second pitch bolted, third pitch small nuts / cams (be sure to protect for second)


Josh Edwards
Bend, OR
Josh Edwards   Bend, OR
Don't know why this route gets the R rating. No bolt spacing that you wouldn't see on any other Smith routes. Maybe PG13 for the runout and poor rock quality to the first bolt, but there's a few spots to place some good nuts so it's safe. Great climb with a even better position. Don't let the R rating deter you from getting on this. Sep 19, 2013
Jason Chinchen
Bend, Oregon
Jason Chinchen   Bend, Oregon
What is the hike off or rappel beta? Would be helpful to include this kind of thing in the description... Apr 17, 2014
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
See Wherever I May Roam description for rappel beta. To walk off, hike and scramble up weaknesses/gullies to the south eventually passing the towers of the Smith Rock Group and following a rough trail through the grass along the top of the formation in a southerly direction. When you can see a continuous slope to the west, turn right (west) and descend towards the Crooked eventually ending up on the trail that runs underneath WIMR.

hillmap.com/m/ag1zfmhpbGxtY… Apr 22, 2014
Ray Pinpillage
West Egg
Ray Pinpillage   West Egg
Look at White Satin for walk off beta. There are cairns marking the trail once you climb to the top of the gully from the belay. Rap'ing down WIMR is awful, especially where there are climbers on Stained. May 25, 2014
patrick kadel
patrick kadel  
Exciting climb. I think I climbed it correctly, started up the rotten arete where i placed two manky cams and then found some bolts heading right. I think the first two bolts are close together on easy rock, but then it got hard and the next bolt was up there. I wasted a lot of time looking for a 5.8 way up with no luck. I finally went up using a few thin and uncertain moves. Hardest 5.8 I've ever been on.

The hand traverse pitch was enjoyable and was a presently soft 5.7 pitch. I needed that after the first pitch. Aug 18, 2014
Richard Denker
Portland OR
Richard Denker   Portland OR
The 5.8 section of the first pitch is harder then most 5.9 at Smith Rock, it is certainly harder then Honey Pot and Phone Call From Satin, both rated 5.9.

I usually break up the first pitch at the semi-hanging belay. Before it is the unprotected 5.6 and just above it is the first bolt of the 5.8 face. Also for the runout top of the the 5.8 one or two cam in the .75 and 1 Camalot size can be useful. Sep 24, 2014
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
Make sure you stay on the right side (West) of the wall, if not you'll end up like me and doing the second pitch of Hawks Nest (10c). Apr 23, 2016
Frank F
Bend, OR
Frank F   Bend, OR
I think the 10c line that Crushin' referred to is actually Risky Pass. His point about staying on the west side is correct.

There are now more bolts on the top half of the 5.8 pitch than indicated in the topos in Watts' guide book. A stopper and a #3 or 4 camalot can be placed in the lower, "unprotected" 5.6 section. Aug 31, 2016
Just did this route - found it to be fun, but confusing for two reasons:
1. MP calls this a 3 pitch climb, but the Watts book calls it 2 pitches. On the 1st pitch, there is a hanging belay on the west wall about 60 ft up from the belay cove - I'm guessing MP is assuming you are stopping at that hanging belay (which is actually the TR anchor for Sky Slab from the Watts book) instead of continuing higher up through the 5.8/5.9 west side climbing and then crossing east to the better belay stance anchor. (FYI, Sky Slab is not listed on MP as of now.)
2. Lots of comments lamenting a high first bolt on pitch 1, but if you're planning to make this a 3 pitch climb by stopping at that first anchor, there is no bolt before the first anchor as far as I can tell. And I looked pretty closely. To add to the confusion, on the Watts topo on pg. 175, there appear to be two bolts before that hanging belay anchor along Sky Ridge route, but I couldn't find any trace of these.

My suggestion: Do this in two pitches, not three, and use Hawk's nest anchor for your first bolt if not in use (about 20 feet up from the P1 belay cove on the east side of the ridge is the upper anchor of Hawks Nest), move up and get in a bad cam/nut if you'd like, then clip a bolt of west face hanging belay anchor, and then finish the pitch through the 5.8/5.9 and end on top of ledge at the anchor on the east face. From here enjoy the mellow and straightforward hand traverse as the second and last pitch. Wingsuit to safety. Nov 2, 2018
Luis Armando Gil
Portland Oregon
  5.8 R
Luis Armando Gil   Portland Oregon
  5.8 R
One of the most beautiful climbs at smith. Can't beleve it doesn't have more stars. Beautiful line, beautiful location and amazing and unique view. I have climbed this route many times already. I brake it into three pitches. Make sure you don't go left on the arete on the second pitch. Here is a video of the whole route I put together you can see how amazing it is. Go and do it! :)

youtu.be/cwFx1HUEUSc Dec 1, 2018