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Windlass or 'The Tail'
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 1 from 1
vote
Routes in Shirt Tail Peak
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Can't Find My Way Home T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cro-Magnon aka The Tail T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Destruction T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Double Life T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Emperor's New Shoes, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Future Primitive T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gambit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ginseng Junkie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Giuoco Piano Direct T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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King Of Pain T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Missing Link T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Moriarty's Mistake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Moriarty's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Mountaineer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Mrs. Clean Gets Down T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Serrated Jam Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sorenson Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Throne, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tiger Balm Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Windlass or 'The Tail' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | R Briggs and L. Hamilton, 1974 |
| Page Views: | 1,196 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 14, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closure Lifted
Details
As of 7/16/17:
Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Previously:
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Previously:
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
Description
I have entered this climb as both 'The Tail' and 'Windlass' which I believe to be the same climb. This climb is a lost route in [the] Rossiter book, which states that the location of both routes is unknown, although both start above the huge pine in the dihedral, ending on the top of Gambit. As well, the FFA of both was listed as by the same folks at the same year... So I went looking for this route, and I believe I found it (them).
Climbing ~200' feet up the 'Mountaineer's Route' you reach a tremendous pine tree with a fixed sling rap station. Above this perhaps 20' higher in the slot there is a stance on a ledge with a comfortable belay position/ledge.
From this, looking straight up, there is a intermittent crack that rises up to 2 small trees growing out of it, 4-6" in diameter at the trunk. These guard the base of a very nice section of hands-to-thin-hands crack, which is followed to its termination just above a 1.75" section of left-leaning crack. The crux moves are made above small wires just above this, continuing up to reach where the crack will open up again, rising somewhat up and left when it is opportune to reach, at ~58 meters of height, the top of the rock to belay as for Gambit.
This is a seldom climbed section of rock and the path definitely crosses loose rock and lichen. A would-be leader must consider their own safety and the safety of all nearby and below before casting off on this climb, as there is severe fall potential and also death-blocks to avoid pulling on or placing protection behind. A very competent and aware party should not endanger folks below, but if this were a high-traffic route, I'd stay away from Shirt Tail entirely. As it is, I merely advise a "heads up" to anyone below a party on this climb and suggest to assess if you trust them with your life- because that is what you are betting here. In this case a helmet will not help you.
Climbing ~200' feet up the 'Mountaineer's Route' you reach a tremendous pine tree with a fixed sling rap station. Above this perhaps 20' higher in the slot there is a stance on a ledge with a comfortable belay position/ledge.
From this, looking straight up, there is a intermittent crack that rises up to 2 small trees growing out of it, 4-6" in diameter at the trunk. These guard the base of a very nice section of hands-to-thin-hands crack, which is followed to its termination just above a 1.75" section of left-leaning crack. The crux moves are made above small wires just above this, continuing up to reach where the crack will open up again, rising somewhat up and left when it is opportune to reach, at ~58 meters of height, the top of the rock to belay as for Gambit.
This is a seldom climbed section of rock and the path definitely crosses loose rock and lichen. A would-be leader must consider their own safety and the safety of all nearby and below before casting off on this climb, as there is severe fall potential and also death-blocks to avoid pulling on or placing protection behind. A very competent and aware party should not endanger folks below, but if this were a high-traffic route, I'd stay away from Shirt Tail entirely. As it is, I merely advise a "heads up" to anyone below a party on this climb and suggest to assess if you trust them with your life- because that is what you are betting here. In this case a helmet will not help you.
Photos
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