Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m)|
|FA:||R Briggs and L. Hamilton, 1974|
|Page Views:||755 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Oct 14, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
Climbing ~200' feet up the 'Mountaineer's Route' you reach a tremendous pine tree with a fixed sling rap station. Above this perhaps 20' higher in the slot there is a stance on a ledge with a comfortable belay position/ledge.
From this, looking straight up, there is a intermittent crack that rises up to 2 small trees growing out of it, 4-6" in diameter at the trunk. These guard the base of a very nice section of hands-to-thin-hands crack, which is followed to its termination just above a 1.75" section of left-leaning crack. The crux moves are made above small wires just above this, continuing up to reach where the crack will open up again, rising somewhat up and left when it is opportune to reach, at ~58 meters of height, the top of the rock to belay as for Gambit.
This is a seldom climbed section of rock and the path definitely crosses loose rock and lichen. A would-be leader must consider their own safety and the safety of all nearby and below before casting off on this climb, as there is severe fall potential and also death-blocks to avoid pulling on or placing protection behind. A very competent and aware party should not endanger folks below, but if this were a high-traffic route, I'd stay away from Shirt Tail entirely. As it is, I merely advise a "heads up" to anyone below a party on this climb and suggest to assess if you trust them with your life- because that is what you are betting here. In this case a helmet will not help you.