Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Richard Rossiter and Linda Willing, 1979
Page Views: 3,414 total · 12/month
Shared By: Matt Robertson on Dec 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Another short pitch on the "Tour of 5.10 Variations to Gambit," this one improves slightly over Missing Link on quality. From the big ledge above Missing Link (or the top of the dihedral pitch of Gambit), belay near a pine tree. Work up a short, bulging, triangular corner with a fist crack (briefly 5.9) to another ledge, step right to a steep dihedral, and ascend a nice finger crack to a larger ledge (Yosemite Ledge).

From the belay on Yosemite Ledge, continue straight up easier cracks overhead, or, perhaps better, traverse to the left margin of the massive Shirttail face, and join the spectacular summit pitch of Tiger Balm Arete.

Protection Suggest change

Eldo gear to a #1 Camalot, plus a #3.5 or 4 Camalot for a short fist crack below the crux.