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Can't Find My Way Home
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
Routes in Shirt Tail Peak
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Can't Find My Way Home T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cro-Magnon aka The Tail T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Destruction T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Double Life T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Emperor's New Shoes, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Future Primitive T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gambit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ginseng Junkie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Giuoco Piano Direct T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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King Of Pain T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Missing Link T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Moriarty's Mistake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Moriarty's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Mountaineer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Mrs. Clean Gets Down T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Serrated Jam Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sorenson Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Throne, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tiger Balm Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Windlass or 'The Tail' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Mark Hammond and Kevin Bains 9-2008 |
| Page Views: | 800 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Hammond on Sep 25, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closure Lifted
Details
As of 7/16/17:
Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Previously:
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Previously:
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
Description
P1-5.8s - Climb up an arete/face feature for about 25ft, then move L. to next cleaner rock and up. Continue to trend L. to cross big ledge with tree. (This is where a single rope rap will land you, then you can scramble off skier's right.)
Climb straight up set of several shallow corners (small cams to start) and aim for big tree with rap slings. Beware loose rock on this pitch. This pitch is contrived and wandering to follow the best climbing with the best chance for protection (while avoiding the worst of the loose rock).
P2-5.9, 60ft - Climb up to next big tree with slings through double cracks through overhang, then move L to finish up crack with tiny tree in it. Longer, though less steep crack/corners exist to left.
P3-5.10-80ft - Above is a sweet looking corner on R or a blocky, stem-boxy overhanging system on L. Right looks better but isn't (we did both). Take the left system and grunt up into it. End at large belay/rappel tree.
Climb straight up set of several shallow corners (small cams to start) and aim for big tree with rap slings. Beware loose rock on this pitch. This pitch is contrived and wandering to follow the best climbing with the best chance for protection (while avoiding the worst of the loose rock).
P2-5.9, 60ft - Climb up to next big tree with slings through double cracks through overhang, then move L to finish up crack with tiny tree in it. Longer, though less steep crack/corners exist to left.
P3-5.10-80ft - Above is a sweet looking corner on R or a blocky, stem-boxy overhanging system on L. Right looks better but isn't (we did both). Take the left system and grunt up into it. End at large belay/rappel tree.
Location
Start at bent tree to the left of start for Tiger Balm Arete, where trail is forced away from base of cliff. Route climbs the rappel route (one of them), so rap.
Photos
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