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Routes in Shirt Tail Peak

Can't Find My Way Home T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cro-Magnon aka The Tail T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Destruction T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Double Life T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Emperor's New Shoes, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Future Primitive T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gambit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ginseng Junkie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giuoco Piano Direct T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
King Of Pain T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Missing Link T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moriarty's Mistake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Moriarty's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Mountaineer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mrs. Clean Gets Down T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Serrated Jam Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sorenson Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Throne, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tiger Balm Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Windlass or 'The Tail' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 270 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mark Hammond and Kevin Bains 9-2008
Page Views: 102 total · 1/month
Shared By: Mark Hammond on Sep 25, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closure Lifted Details


P1-5.8s - Climb up an arete/face feature for about 25ft, then move L. to next cleaner rock and up. Continue to trend L. to cross big ledge with tree. (This is where a single rope rap will land you, then you can scramble off skier's right.)
Climb straight up set of several shallow corners (small cams to start) and aim for big tree with rap slings. Beware loose rock on this pitch. This pitch is contrived and wandering to follow the best climbing with the best chance for protection (while avoiding the worst of the loose rock).

P2-5.9, 60ft - Climb up to next big tree with slings through double cracks through overhang, then move L to finish up crack with tiny tree in it. Longer, though less steep crack/corners exist to left.

P3-5.10-80ft - Above is a sweet looking corner on R or a blocky, stem-boxy overhanging system on L. Right looks better but isn't (we did both). Take the left system and grunt up into it. End at large belay/rappel tree.


Start at bent tree to the left of start for Tiger Balm Arete, where trail is forced away from base of cliff. Route climbs the rappel route (one of them), so rap.


Basic Eldo rack.


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