Avg: 2.8 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 310 ft (94 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Hurley, Culp '65, FFA: Reveley, Nordon, Zimmerman '74|
|Page Views:||1,481 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Oct 4, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
We climbed the meat of the route as a single pitch, leaving the 5.6 upper slabby arete for a second pitch. This can be done on a 60M or 70M rope, depending on the belay you want to reach. The 70M option seems best, and also sets you at eye-level with a set rap station (webbing w/Rapid Link on a tree) on the face to the left, should you opt-out of the easy summit pitch.
Arrive at Shirt-Tail peak to the right, and scramble up the dirty gully until if becomes 'mush.' Step left between two trees to reach a ledge system maybe 40' down and left of the start of the route. Drop the packs, change the shoes, and rack up here. Scramble to the base of the climb and set a belay back and right below the large pine tree. The crack system going straight up is Double Life (bomb) but the system heading up and left to the steep wall and corner, G.P. Direct, is a great route. It may be advisable to set the belayer back behind the tree from the climber, in case any loose rock should happen to come off early on the climb.
Pitch1: Proceed up the climb setting small to medium nuts and the occasional cam. Just before the crux, a pink or red tricam places very well in a yellow horizontal slash to the right, then a 2" cam up in a small undercling, and then a few feet higher, a nut. This is the crux pro. Move up over the bulge to a good hold on the right of a pillar of rock just before stepping left in a changing-corners move, then continue up to stand on the pillar. Good 1-1.5" cams or a large stopper can be had here. This ends the real runout and by and large ends the hardest climbing. Continue up in a left-facing corner and some cracks for another 40-50 meters to reach a roof over a finger crack with a fixed angle piton (old but good). Pull the roof and belay on the ledge to the left (60M rope) or continue up to another ledge (70M rope) and belay. For the higher belay, a cordalette on a big horn and a great seat are backed up with a stopper and a #2 Camalot. If you are sqeamish, take a #4 Camalot for the belay too.
You can escape left from here to a series of raps from trees (2 raps and a scramble on a 70M, but a 60M will not reach the next station) or continue on P2.
Pitch 2: Climb up the easy, runout arete as the angle leans back to reach the summit, 40M. A piece of gear goes here and there, mostly cams in horizontals. A hard move is available up top for an optional finish... a zig-zag finger crack though a bulge. The rock is a little licheny there though.
To descend, Rap the Mountaineer's Route (presently no top anchor) or hike to the West and rap as from Gambit.