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Routes in Shirt Tail Peak

Can't Find My Way Home T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cro-Magnon aka The Tail T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Destruction T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Double Life T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Emperor's New Shoes, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Future Primitive T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gambit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ginseng Junkie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giuoco Piano Direct T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
King Of Pain T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Missing Link T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moriarty's Mistake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Moriarty's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Mountaineer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mrs. Clean Gets Down T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Serrated Jam Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sorenson Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Throne, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tiger Balm Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Windlass or 'The Tail' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: R. Rossiter, solo
Page Views: 1,916 total, 11/month
Shared By: pete cogan on Oct 4, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

A fun route up the Giucco Piano Arete that ends up on the top of ShirtTail Peak.

P1 -- To start, scramble up and right past the vertical lower section of the arete (Rossiter). You'll start at a big tree in an alcove, and climb about 40 feet up along a discontinuous L facing dihedral to another large tree with slings.Past the tree it's up a gully, and at 100 head L into a rotten band.

P2 -- Climb through 2 bushes (amusing if you're in the right mood), and head L at the first available crack. A 3.5 cam fits nicely here, and now the climbing is terrific: exposed airy moves heading straight to the arete. A bit loose. Excellent pro on the far side of the arete for anchors.100 feet.

P3 -- Up the arete, 130 feet, to a false summit. Beautiful.

P4 -- Climb the SE arete to the summit. 100 feet.

If the first pitch and a half weren't so bushy, I'd say 2 stars. Still, this is a fun, well-protected moderate climb.

Protection

Standard rack up to #3.5 Camalot, med to big stoppers. I found small tricams helpful.
carla  
Did this route last Mo. A so-so route, with lots of loose rock, and vegetation. But gets you to a great summit! For pitch one, we stayed in the gully and belayed at a tree (~ 150 ft), and pitch 2 brought us all the way up to the ridge, with a right traverse into a gully at the end. Pitch 3, on the ridge/face was maybe 5.5, and pitch 4 mostly a scramble. Good climbing in spots on the face, but not a stellar route in my judgement. Not recommended for novice leaders because of the difficulties of dealing with the tons of loose rock and challenging route finding. Jun 29, 2006
Did this route last Saturday. This route is very mountaineerish. Lots of bushes and loose rock everywhere. The Eldo guide book made by Falcon we had was worthless, not even a line to indicate where the route went. Thus, for P1 we went straight up the gully 20 feet past the red rotten ledge to a large tree with several slings on it (150 feet). Avoid the urge to go up the red rotten ledge to the arete. The arete looked overhanging there and, I am guessing, 5.10ish. For P2 we stayed about 30 feet below the arete and moved through several bushes one of which was thorny. We followed a large crack system with about a million variations. Belay was set up at a moderate sized tree about 20 feet below the arete on the south side (~150 feet). The last pitch was very easy probably all [fourth] class climbing. For P3 we came up to the arete right where you cross to the other side of a large gully and up to the top of Shirt Tail another 150 foot pitch. The trail to this route is very poor with loose rock everywhere. There was lots of [vegetation] and loose rock everywhere but the pro placements were pretty good. Also the rappel station 100-150 ft to the north of the summit was pretty good, a little forth class downclimbing (20 feet) and it's a breeze after that, 3 quick 60-70 foot repels and we could walk off. Count on taking some time to figure out where the route goes! A good climb with a great view, but I wouldn't give it any stars. -Jason Jul 12, 2004