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Routes in Shirt Tail Peak

Can't Find My Way Home T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cro-Magnon aka The Tail T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Destruction T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Double Life T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Emperor's New Shoes, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Future Primitive T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gambit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ginseng Junkie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giuoco Piano Direct T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
King Of Pain T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Missing Link T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moriarty's Mistake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Moriarty's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Mountaineer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mrs. Clean Gets Down T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Serrated Jam Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sorenson Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Throne, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tiger Balm Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Windlass or 'The Tail' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mike Clinton & Bill Demaillie, 1988
Page Views: 2,293 total, 18/month
Shared By: Paul S on Mar 16, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Raptor Closure Lifted Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is the bolted line on the same face that Cro-Magnon and Serrated Jam Crack are located. I really liked this climb, lots of good hard face climbing with some nice exposure towards the end. The route starts on the face just right of the start to Cro-Magnon and Serrated Jam Crack. Some hard moves need to be passed before the first bolt, then at which point, make the crux moves out left to join Cro-Magnon right before its crux. The Throne continues to move up and left via some more 11ish face moves to the arete with bolts for protection. Then just run it out with easier climbing to an anchor with a bolt and two pins.

Location

To reach the base of this route, take the same 1st pitch as Cro-Magnon or Serrated Jam Crack. Another option is to climb P1 of Gambit, and traverse right along the ledge and scramble up to the base of the route. You can do two rappels to get back to the ground, or pull left around the arete at the top and continue up with Gambit.

Protection

There's 5 bolts leading to the anchor on this route. Getting to the first bolt can be protected with a micro stopper (I used a # 5) and between the 1st and 2nd you can get the same pro in that you would for the crux of Cro-Magnon (#0.5 Camalot for me).

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Awesome pitch. Really good climbing and good position. The nut before the crux bolt was ~#4 BD stopper and was bomb-proof I used a small Alien below that and a blue Alien between the last and second to last bolts. Save for that and QDs, you don't need a rack to speak of.
Hard to flash but not terrible moves for average folks. HOWEVER, this would be very hard for short folks to do at all.

The rap-anchor was partially refurbished 5/08. The rap to ledge is 100' to 110' or so, not 150' as stated in the Rossiter book. ! 70M makes it easily, I SUSPECT that a 60M might too.

Regardless, you can finish to the summit by continuing 6 meters past the rap anchor to join Gambit at the belay ledge above. May 12, 2008