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Routes in Shirt Tail Peak
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Can't Find My Way Home T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cro-Magnon aka The Tail T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Destruction T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Double Life T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Emperor's New Shoes, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Future Primitive T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gambit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ginseng Junkie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Giuoco Piano Direct T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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King Of Pain T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Missing Link T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Moriarty's Mistake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Moriarty's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Mountaineer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Mrs. Clean Gets Down T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Serrated Jam Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sorenson Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Throne, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tiger Balm Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Windlass or 'The Tail' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: |
Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
Fixed Hardware
(7) |
| FA: | Mike Clinton & Bill Demaillie, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 4,147 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Paul S on Mar 16, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closure Lifted
Details
As of 7/16/17:
Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Previously:
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Previously:
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
Description
This is the bolted line on the same face that Cro-Magnon and Serrated Jam Crack are located. I really liked this climb, lots of good hard face climbing with some nice exposure towards the end. The route starts on the face just right of the start to Cro-Magnon and Serrated Jam Crack. Some hard moves need to be passed before the first bolt, then at which point, make the crux moves out left to join Cro-Magnon right before its crux. The Throne continues to move up and left via some more 11ish face moves to the arete with bolts for protection. Then just run it out with easier climbing to an anchor with a bolt and two pins.
Location
To reach the base of this route, take the same 1st pitch as Cro-Magnon or Serrated Jam Crack. Another option is to climb P1 of Gambit, and traverse right along the ledge and scramble up to the base of the route. You can do two rappels to get back to the ground, or pull left around the arete at the top and continue up with Gambit.
Protection
There's 5 bolts leading to the anchor on this route. Getting to the first bolt can be protected with a micro stopper (I used a # 5) and between the 1st and 2nd you can get the same pro in that you would for the crux of Cro-Magnon (#0.5 Camalot for me).
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