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Routes in Shirt Tail Peak

Can't Find My Way Home T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cro-Magnon aka The Tail T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Destruction T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Double Life T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Emperor's New Shoes, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Future Primitive T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gambit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ginseng Junkie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giuoco Piano Direct T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
King Of Pain T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Missing Link T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moriarty's Mistake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Moriarty's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Mountaineer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mrs. Clean Gets Down T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Serrated Jam Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sorenson Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Throne, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tiger Balm Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Windlass or 'The Tail' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: pre1975?
Page Views: 2,027 total, 10/month
Shared By: David Hous on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Raptor Closure Lifted Details
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Serrated Jam Crack is the companion climb to Cro-Magnon, see the Cro-Magnon route description for more detail. Start with P1 of either Cro-Magnon or Mountaineer's Route.

P2: Head up through the roof and up the small dihedral, place pro, step right to twin thin cracks and up to sloping ledge (crux, same as Cro-Magnon.) From here, the left crack is Cro-Magnon and the right, more obvious line is Serrated. Cruise up the hand/layback crack (5.7) to the ledge and belay, or cross over to the bolt/pin belay on The Throne. Great climb, less sustained than Cro-Magnon.

Protection

Standard rack, maybe a couple extra hand-size.

Photos

The guidebook gives this a PG-13 rating...I'd give it PG-. I disagree with the idea that there's gear all over, but it's not totally desperate either. Outside the crux, you have many choices. At the crux, there's a smallish pocket fit for a middle Alien. I agree that this is a totally worthwhile option, esp. if you're three deep waiting for Gambit like we were. Aug 15, 2016
Hey smokie, this is Gary, Gary B.. I heard you are peenning a new guidebook. Pen this. I thought Eldo was one of the better ski areas in the Front Range.

Gary Burghoff May 2, 2008
Sergio P
Idaho Springs, CO
  5.10a
Sergio P   Idaho Springs, CO
  5.10a
Lots of pro options before the crux, after the crux and all over this route. Apr 21, 2007
I climbed this yesterday and found the section after the roof a bit run out and quite terrifying. I seem to remember not being able to get in any worthy gear for quite a ways and since my last piece was far below me a fall would have been hospital material.In my opinion this climb should have a R or S rating for the section after the roof. The climbing was sustained and the feet we're lousy. Once you reach the section where the two climbs split you can get in gear but not anything (I found) before that. If you popped you would fall past the roof to the ledge below...... Jun 16, 2003
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This is definitely a nice route, the name mislead me, however. I went up there assuming it was the Eldo equivalent of Yosemite's "Meatgrinder" (an epic, hand shredding crack). What a surprise to discover the crux is face and the crack itself is much easier. I also recommend Cro-Magnon as more continuous in difficulty. These two climbs are for some reason very seldom done, especially compared to the crowds on Gambit. Mar 17, 2003