Type: |
Trad, 2 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
FA: | Harrison, Stuberg, Brooks, 1981 |
Page Views: | 594 total · 2/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Feb 4, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more information visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
As of 7/16/17:
Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Previously:
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Previously:
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
Description
Shirt-Tail Peak is comprised of two main walls split by a massive dihedral/gully, which is climbed via "The Mountaineer's Route." The left hand wall contains the popular classic Gambit, and the Right hand wall has several lower quality routes, one of which is Double Life.
The obvious arete/face to the shallow left-facing corner on the prow of the right-hand buttres is the Giuoco Piano Direct.
Double Life is a short ways to the right of GP Direct, on the South Face of the West wall, starting in a crack system & shallow, right-facing corner. Rossiter gives this route a star (1/1 star rating), which makes me wonder if he's ever climbed it, because I generally really enjoy the routes he highlights in his books, but this one sucks.
The crack system moves up and right for the first pitch, and is better looking from the ground than it is in reality. For the first 20-30 feet, your main concern is bad rock, not difficulty. Continue up the crack system for perhaps 80 feet to 2 reasonable pins (with good gear all around them) and execute the 'crux' moving up and left around them.
Once on a large solid ledge, follow another crack system up and right to a false summit, or up and left to join the GP Direct. Neither option is particularly good, clean, or hard. Do whatever you pick- or maybe spend more time on a better route. I liked Moriarty's Revenge/Moriarty's Mistake a lot better.
As of Feb 2002, the best way off is to traverse to the left-hand summit and rap as for Gambit, or to get into the big dihedral/gully as for the Mountaineer's Route and rap, although there is no anchor on the top of the last pitch. Some of the other anchors need some upgrading as well.
The obvious arete/face to the shallow left-facing corner on the prow of the right-hand buttres is the Giuoco Piano Direct.
Double Life is a short ways to the right of GP Direct, on the South Face of the West wall, starting in a crack system & shallow, right-facing corner. Rossiter gives this route a star (1/1 star rating), which makes me wonder if he's ever climbed it, because I generally really enjoy the routes he highlights in his books, but this one sucks.
The crack system moves up and right for the first pitch, and is better looking from the ground than it is in reality. For the first 20-30 feet, your main concern is bad rock, not difficulty. Continue up the crack system for perhaps 80 feet to 2 reasonable pins (with good gear all around them) and execute the 'crux' moving up and left around them.
Once on a large solid ledge, follow another crack system up and right to a false summit, or up and left to join the GP Direct. Neither option is particularly good, clean, or hard. Do whatever you pick- or maybe spend more time on a better route. I liked Moriarty's Revenge/Moriarty's Mistake a lot better.
As of Feb 2002, the best way off is to traverse to the left-hand summit and rap as for Gambit, or to get into the big dihedral/gully as for the Mountaineer's Route and rap, although there is no anchor on the top of the last pitch. Some of the other anchors need some upgrading as well.
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