Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Shirt Tail Peak

Can't Find My Way Home T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cro-Magnon aka The Tail T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Destruction T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Double Life T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Emperor's New Shoes, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Future Primitive T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gambit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ginseng Junkie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giuoco Piano Direct T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
King Of Pain T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Missing Link T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moriarty's Mistake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Moriarty's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Mountaineer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mrs. Clean Gets Down T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Serrated Jam Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sorenson Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Throne, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tiger Balm Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Windlass or 'The Tail' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 2 pitches Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Harrison, Stuberg, Brooks, 1981
Page Views: 97 total · 0/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closure Lifted Details

Description

Shirt-Tail Peak is comprised of two main walls split by a massive dihedral/gully, which is climbed via "The Mountaineer's Route." The left hand wall contains the popular classic Gambit, and the Right hand wall has several lower quality routes, one of which is Double Life.

The obvious arete/face to the shallow left-facing corner on the prow of the right-hand buttres is the Giuoco Piano Direct.

Double Life is a short ways to the right of GP Direct, on the South Face of the West wall, starting in a crack system & shallow, right-facing corner. Rossiter gives this route a star (1/1 star rating), which makes me wonder if he's ever climbed it, because I generally really enjoy the routes he highlights in his books, but this one sucks.

The crack system moves up and right for the first pitch, and is better looking from the ground than it is in reality. For the first 20-30 feet, your main concern is bad rock, not difficulty. Continue up the crack system for perhaps 80 feet to 2 reasonable pins (with good gear all around them) and execute the 'crux' moving up and left around them.

Once on a large solid ledge, follow another crack system up and right to a false summit, or up and left to join the GP Direct. Neither option is particularly good, clean, or hard. Do whatever you pick- or maybe spend more time on a better route. I liked Moriarty's Revenge/Moriarty's Mistake a lot better.

As of Feb 2002, the best way off is to traverse to the left-hand summit and rap as for Gambit, or to get into the big dihedral/gully as for the Mountaineer's Route and rap, although there is no anchor on the top of the last pitch. Some of the other anchors need some upgrading as well.

Protection

The route takes a mixed bag of protection. [A set] of stoppers & cams or hexes will do. The quality of the rock on pitch 1, particularly at the start, leaves something to be desired and some run-outs. A better name for the route may have been Nine Lives.

Photos

I concur, Doctor. The sketchy house of wedged flakes down low felt way cruxier than getting past the unnecessary pins. Some OK climbing up high on P.2, but hardly a classic. Any climbing, however, would have been better than queueing up for Gambit on a Saturday. But on a deserted weekday? Find something else. May 16, 2006