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Routes in Shirt Tail Peak

Can't Find My Way Home T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cro-Magnon aka The Tail T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Destruction T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Double Life T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Emperor's New Shoes, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Future Primitive T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gambit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ginseng Junkie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giuoco Piano Direct T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
King Of Pain T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Missing Link T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moriarty's Mistake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Moriarty's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Mountaineer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mrs. Clean Gets Down T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Serrated Jam Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sorenson Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Throne, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tiger Balm Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Windlass or 'The Tail' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 104 total · 1/month
Shared By: Chris. T. on Jan 17, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closure Lifted Details


This route is best done as a finish to the route "Sunstroke", or after summiting Shirt Tail Peak via one of the other routes on the south face.

From the top of the second (of three) rappels on the descent (the more eastern of 2 sets of rappels that start in the gully), look climber's right to locate a clean wall with a small roof/bulge about 20' up and 2 short parallel cracks above the roof/bulge. The route starts about 10 feet right of an obvious, moderate, hand crack that angles slightly left. Begin on a ledge just left of a large pine tree and ascend easy rock for 10 feet. Work your way up the rest of the face before entering the roof/bulge(tricky gear). Proceed through the roof/bulge(crux)(tricky gear) to a good stance. Make a few more nice moves through the parallel cracks for another 10 feet to a good ledge. Continue up and left to the top of the rappels, or keep climbing up fun, easy rock to the summit.

The relationship between this route and the finish of "Sunstroke" is unknown.


This route is on the west face, above and left of "King of Pain" and "Mrs. Clean Gets Down", just left of a large pine tree on a ledge.


Standard rack.


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