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Routes in Shirt Tail Peak

Can't Find My Way Home T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cro-Magnon aka The Tail T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Destruction T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Double Life T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Emperor's New Shoes, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Future Primitive T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gambit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ginseng Junkie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Giuoco Piano Direct T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
King Of Pain T,S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Missing Link T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moriarty's Mistake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Moriarty's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Mountaineer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mrs. Clean Gets Down T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Serrated Jam Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sorenson Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Throne, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tiger Balm Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Windlass or 'The Tail' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Andy Donson, Marc Gay
Page Views: 685 total · 4/month
Shared By: Andy Donson on Jan 9, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closure Lifted Details


This route climbs the left side of the prominent bulging prow of Shirt-tail, just left of the crux pitch of Tiger Balm Arete. Continuous climbing, technical gear and sweet exposure make this a memorable pitch. The route was headpointed, and would be a tough, but not unreasonably reckless ground up lead.

Start one pitch up Tiger Balm on a spacious pedestal.Climb Tiger Balm p.2 as far as the bolt, then traverse left around an arete and into a hanging L-facing corner. Climb to the top of this(10+ s/vs) where a shake out and good gear can be had. Battle up and left into another hanging L-facing corner (crux, 12a/b s). Place some tricky gear in the corner (crucial blue alien and #8 rock) then stem up and right (11a s/vs), eventually joining the arete and easier ground. Run up to the large tree and terrace. You can rap from bolts on top of King of Pain and scramble down to the base. These bolts can also be used to t.r. off of with a few directionals.


Doubles of one inch cams and down, double set of nuts to one inch, RPs, 2 blue aliens (crucial), double ropes, one 3.5 inch cam, long slings.


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