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Cro-Magnon aka The Tail
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.6 from 13
votes
Routes in Shirt Tail Peak
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Can't Find My Way Home T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cro-Magnon aka The Tail T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Destruction T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Double Life T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Emperor's New Shoes, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Future Primitive T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gambit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ginseng Junkie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Giuoco Piano Direct T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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King Of Pain T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Missing Link T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Moriarty's Mistake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Moriarty's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Mountaineer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Mrs. Clean Gets Down T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Serrated Jam Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sorenson Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Throne, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tiger Balm Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Windlass or 'The Tail' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Richard & Joyce Rossiter, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 3,317 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | David House on Mar 14, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closure Lifted
Details
As of 7/16/17:
Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Previously:
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Previously:
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
Description
Shirtail Peak has two prominent aretes; Tiger Balm/Gambit on the left and Giouco Piano on the right. The Mountaineer's Route goes up the big dihedral in between. Three routes cross the "crux buttress" level with P2 of Gambit on the wall between Gambit and Mountaineer's; The Throne, Cro-Magnon and Serrated Jam Crack.
P1: Climb the slab midway between Mountaineer's and Gambit to a short dihedral/small roof (5.8) and up to a large tree with slings.
P2: Follow a short finger crack over a roof (5.8) and up the small left-facing dihedral above. Place gear as the crack in the dihedral ends and traverse one move right and then up thin cracks to a sloping ledge (crux.) Cro-Magnon takes the left (smaller) of the two cracks above the sloping ledge, the larger crack on the right is Serrated Jam Crack. Follow the thin crack (5.9) up to a short face. Climb the thin face (5.8?) up to the two-pin, one bolt anchor on The Throne. I clipped the last bolt on The Throne for gear here as the flakes seem pretty fragile.
A 60M rope should get you down to the tree with slings and another rap to the ground, or finish up to the top on Gambit or something else. Using a 50M rope left us with a little soloing to do between belays, not hard but exposed.
I really enjoyed this climb so I gave it three stars, I suspect others may only give it two, since it is only the second pitch that it outstanding. This route is fairly sustained, the pro is good but takes a little thought to place.
A word on loose rock: Shirtail has it! There were 5 parties on Gambit last Saturday, I got pegged in the head by a pebble and we saw a basketball size boulder crash on the slabs at the base from up high. This is not a good crag to get too popular, but it seems that the lure of Gambit is high.
P1: Climb the slab midway between Mountaineer's and Gambit to a short dihedral/small roof (5.8) and up to a large tree with slings.
P2: Follow a short finger crack over a roof (5.8) and up the small left-facing dihedral above. Place gear as the crack in the dihedral ends and traverse one move right and then up thin cracks to a sloping ledge (crux.) Cro-Magnon takes the left (smaller) of the two cracks above the sloping ledge, the larger crack on the right is Serrated Jam Crack. Follow the thin crack (5.9) up to a short face. Climb the thin face (5.8?) up to the two-pin, one bolt anchor on The Throne. I clipped the last bolt on The Throne for gear here as the flakes seem pretty fragile.
A 60M rope should get you down to the tree with slings and another rap to the ground, or finish up to the top on Gambit or something else. Using a 50M rope left us with a little soloing to do between belays, not hard but exposed.
I really enjoyed this climb so I gave it three stars, I suspect others may only give it two, since it is only the second pitch that it outstanding. This route is fairly sustained, the pro is good but takes a little thought to place.
A word on loose rock: Shirtail has it! There were 5 parties on Gambit last Saturday, I got pegged in the head by a pebble and we saw a basketball size boulder crash on the slabs at the base from up high. This is not a good crag to get too popular, but it seems that the lure of Gambit is high.
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