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Mountaineer's Route
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 1.1 from 21
votes
Routes in Shirt Tail Peak
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Can't Find My Way Home T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cro-Magnon aka The Tail T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Destruction T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Double Life T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Emperor's New Shoes, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Future Primitive T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gambit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ginseng Junkie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Giuoco Piano Direct T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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King Of Pain T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Missing Link T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Moriarty's Mistake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Moriarty's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Mountaineer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Mrs. Clean Gets Down T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Serrated Jam Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sorenson Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Throne, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tiger Balm Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Windlass or 'The Tail' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| FA: | George and Jean Hurley, 1965 |
| Page Views: | 3,980 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Thompson on Feb 22, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closure Lifted
Details
As of 7/16/17:
Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Previously:
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Previously:
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
Description
Mountaineer's Route ascends the prominant gully separating the two summits of Shirttail. After scrambling up the loose talus gully between Rincon and West Ridge, you'll arrive at a rotten red ledge that runs along the base of the low angle slabs that make up the bottom of Shirttail. Here you'll see a huge pine tree which sits in the gully, 200 feet up from the ledge. Mountaineer's Route starts about 20 feet up and right from this ledge. Just look for the easiest way to reach the obvious gully.
P1: Cruise up and left on slabs and cracks to reach the gully, and continue up to belay at the huge pine tree.
or do what we did: From the top of the talus approach gully, go left along the broken red ledge for about 15 feet. P1: Start in a short, obtuse right-facing dihedral, passing three trees in the first 15 feet. Run it out over easy slabs for 40 feet up to an upward-pointing triangle flake, finally placing gear, then make some tricky (5.7) moves. Now in the obvious gully, continue up to the huge pine tree and belay - 185 feet.
P2: This is obvious. Start in a deep V-slot and make some interesting chimney moves. Continue up the dirty gully for 100 feet (might want a broom) thrashing through some trees along the way. Go right around the overhang/roof and belay at the top of the gully in the ridge crest - 195 feet.
P3: Go north along the sharp ridge/arete to the flat summit. There is some exciting exposure as you look down the expansive southwest face! - 40 feet.
This route can easily be broken into 4 pitches with a 50m rope, but a 60m will get you there in style.
2 stars for the climbing, but three for the unbeatable summit!
P1: Cruise up and left on slabs and cracks to reach the gully, and continue up to belay at the huge pine tree.
or do what we did: From the top of the talus approach gully, go left along the broken red ledge for about 15 feet. P1: Start in a short, obtuse right-facing dihedral, passing three trees in the first 15 feet. Run it out over easy slabs for 40 feet up to an upward-pointing triangle flake, finally placing gear, then make some tricky (5.7) moves. Now in the obvious gully, continue up to the huge pine tree and belay - 185 feet.
P2: This is obvious. Start in a deep V-slot and make some interesting chimney moves. Continue up the dirty gully for 100 feet (might want a broom) thrashing through some trees along the way. Go right around the overhang/roof and belay at the top of the gully in the ridge crest - 195 feet.
P3: Go north along the sharp ridge/arete to the flat summit. There is some exciting exposure as you look down the expansive southwest face! - 40 feet.
This route can easily be broken into 4 pitches with a 50m rope, but a 60m will get you there in style.
2 stars for the climbing, but three for the unbeatable summit!
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