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Routes in Shirt Tail Peak
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Can't Find My Way Home T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cro-Magnon aka The Tail T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Destruction T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Double Life T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Emperor's New Shoes, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Future Primitive T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gambit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ginseng Junkie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Giuoco Piano Direct T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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King Of Pain T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Missing Link T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Moriarty's Mistake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Moriarty's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Mountaineer's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Mrs. Clean Gets Down T,S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Serrated Jam Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sorenson Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Throne, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tiger Balm Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Windlass or 'The Tail' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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| Type: |
Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m)
Fixed Hardware
(10) |
| FA: | R.&J. Rossiter, '86 on TR. Lead: Clinton, DeMallie, '88 |
| Page Views: | 1,641 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 4, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closure Lifted
Details
As of 7/16/17:
Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Previously:
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Previously:
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
Description
Approach Shirt Tail Peak to the left, as for Gambit, but continue well left of that route, to the West side of Shirt Tail, above Rincon Wall. Go 20 meters or so up the gully and look up to a large, dark, West-facing wall. Scramble up 20+ meters of easy rock to reach a tree below and west of the West-facing wall, and set a belay. King of Pain and Mrs. Clean Gets Down both ascend the flat wall above.
The start for both routes is the same: climb up to the left of the obvious slot, placing a nut or two on long slings, then at a hanging flake, step to the right across the slot to the right into a wide stem, and get up onto the main wall. 2 small cams can be placed here. Then move up into an odd pod. For Mrs. Clean Gets Down, head up and right towards a bolt on the right. For King Of Pain, head up and left, with good undecrlings left, under a long flake. The moves to reach the first bolt are pretty hard (5.10). Climb upward with increasing difficulty until the 3rd to last bolt, an old "ring bolt" near a mono (old bolt hole?) and a nub. Bump slightly left to stand on the nub and look the crux in the eye... for a while. Up and right is very hard, and it took me several falls to latch a move in that way before peeling off anyway and discovering that the route goes left then up (confirmed later by the topo). The move right is much harder. Finish on 5.11 climbing to a 2-bolt anchor with cold shuts.
There is a 3rd bolt 6' back and left to back up a TR anchor if desired. Rap off to descend.
Note: these climbs are VERY hard in the afternoon sun.
The start for both routes is the same: climb up to the left of the obvious slot, placing a nut or two on long slings, then at a hanging flake, step to the right across the slot to the right into a wide stem, and get up onto the main wall. 2 small cams can be placed here. Then move up into an odd pod. For Mrs. Clean Gets Down, head up and right towards a bolt on the right. For King Of Pain, head up and left, with good undecrlings left, under a long flake. The moves to reach the first bolt are pretty hard (5.10). Climb upward with increasing difficulty until the 3rd to last bolt, an old "ring bolt" near a mono (old bolt hole?) and a nub. Bump slightly left to stand on the nub and look the crux in the eye... for a while. Up and right is very hard, and it took me several falls to latch a move in that way before peeling off anyway and discovering that the route goes left then up (confirmed later by the topo). The move right is much harder. Finish on 5.11 climbing to a 2-bolt anchor with cold shuts.
There is a 3rd bolt 6' back and left to back up a TR anchor if desired. Rap off to descend.
Note: these climbs are VERY hard in the afternoon sun.
Protection
You can TR this from anchors as reached by a scramble from Gambit or Tiger Balm Arete, or from Mrs. Clean Gets Down. The bolts on this route are mostly good, but leading requires some heady moves some distance from so-so gear to get to the first bolt, and clipping from the given stances may be difficult for most people. Gear: some small to medium stoppers, some hand-to-fist sixed cams, and a two 0.3" TCUs will get you onto the vertical face. One more 0.4" TCU might add a piece in the underclings to the left before the first bolt, but I did not place this, so I am not sure it would be good.
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