Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
Trad, TR, 80 ft
|FA:||R.&J. Rossiter, '86 on TR. Lead: Clinton, DeMallie, '88|
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Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
The start for both routes is the same: climb up to the left of the obvious slot, placing a nut or two on long slings, then at a hanging flake, step to the right across the slot to the right into a wide stem, and get up onto the main wall. 2 small cams can be placed here. Then move up into an odd pod. For Mrs. Clean Gets Down, head up and right towards a bolt on the right. For King Of Pain, head up and left, with good undecrlings left, under a long flake. The moves to reach the first bolt are pretty hard (5.10). Climb upward with increasing difficulty until the 3rd to last bolt, an old "ring bolt" near a mono (old bolt hole?) and a nub. Bump slightly left to stand on the nub and look the crux in the eye... for a while. Up and right is very hard, and it took me several falls to latch a move in that way before peeling off anyway and discovering that the route goes left then up (confirmed later by the topo). The move right is much harder. Finish on 5.11 climbing to a 2-bolt anchor with cold shuts.
There is a 3rd bolt 6' back and left to back up a TR anchor if desired. Rap off to descend.
Note: these climbs are VERY hard in the afternoon sun.