Mrs. Clean Gets Down
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British R
Type: |
Trad, Sport, TR, 90 ft (27 m)
Fixed Hardware
(3) |
FA: | J.&R. Rossiter, K. Kuddes, '86 |
Page Views: | 917 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 4, 2003 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
As of 7/16/17:
Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Previously:
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
Per Mike McHugh: Shirt Tail Peak is re-opened!
Previously:
Per Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Shirt Tail closure is in effect as of today through July 15th, 2017.
Update: as of July 16, 2016, from Mike McHugh, the eaglet has fledged. The closure has been lifted.
Update: as of March 17, 2015, per Mike McHugh the raptor closure on Shirt Tail Peak has been lifted!
Update: as of February 2015, Colorado Parks & Wildlife announced that Eldorado Canyon State Park has closed Shirt Tail Peak to all uses, including rock climbing, through July 15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine up to $5,000 and 1 year imprisonment.
Description
Approach Shirt Tail Peak to the left, as for Gambit, but continue well left of that route, to the West side of Shirt Tail, above Rincon Wall. Go 20 meters or so up the gully and look up to a large, dark, West-facing wall. Scramble up 20+ meters of easy rock to reach a tree below and west of the West-facing wall, and set a belay. King of Pain and Mrs. Clean Gets Down both ascend the flat wall above.
The start for both routes is the same: Climb up to the left of the obvious slot, placing a nut or two on long slings, then at a hanging flake, step to the right across the slot to the right into a wide stem, and get up onto the main wall. 2 small cams can be placed here. Then up into an odd pod. For King Of Pain, head up and left. For Ms Clean Gets Down, head up and right from the pod towards a bolt on the right. The moves to reach the first bolt are reasonable (5.9) but a fall from here would be ill-advised. Climb up and right past the bolt to a crux (15-foot+ fall if you miss), and then up easier ground on positive edges to the 'tiny wire(s)' placement, which is barely worth the effort to place. Continue up on climbing no harder than 5.9 to reach a tree near the top of the face (hitch for pro) and top out. To the left there is a 2-bolt anchor with cold shuts. Rap off to descend.
There is a 3rd bolt 6' back and left to back up a TR anchor if desired.
Note: These climbs are VERY hard in the afternoon sun.
The start for both routes is the same: Climb up to the left of the obvious slot, placing a nut or two on long slings, then at a hanging flake, step to the right across the slot to the right into a wide stem, and get up onto the main wall. 2 small cams can be placed here. Then up into an odd pod. For King Of Pain, head up and left. For Ms Clean Gets Down, head up and right from the pod towards a bolt on the right. The moves to reach the first bolt are reasonable (5.9) but a fall from here would be ill-advised. Climb up and right past the bolt to a crux (15-foot+ fall if you miss), and then up easier ground on positive edges to the 'tiny wire(s)' placement, which is barely worth the effort to place. Continue up on climbing no harder than 5.9 to reach a tree near the top of the face (hitch for pro) and top out. To the left there is a 2-bolt anchor with cold shuts. Rap off to descend.
There is a 3rd bolt 6' back and left to back up a TR anchor if desired.
Note: These climbs are VERY hard in the afternoon sun.
Protection
The one bolt on this route is good, but will be below your feet on the thin crux. As well, a lead [to] this requires a heady moves some distance from so-so gear to get to the first bolt, and some large runouts after the bolt. The 'tiny wire' after the crux that is noted on Rossiter's Eldo. topo is a #0 RP or tiny copper-steel. Even with 2 of them equalized, they are not going to hold much of a fall in the flexi-flake they are behind. Count on the runout.
Gear: some small to medium stoppers, some hand-to-fist sized cams, and a two 0.3" TCUs will get you onto the vertical face. The bolt is good, but this is not a sport route. If you want to [amuse] yourself, take some tiny nuts to place 15' above the bolt. The tree near the top can be hitched for top-out pro prior to reaching the bolt-anchors of King Of Pain. You can probably reach these anchors (from which it is possible to TR this route) from a scramble left of mid-route on Gambit.
Gear: some small to medium stoppers, some hand-to-fist sized cams, and a two 0.3" TCUs will get you onto the vertical face. The bolt is good, but this is not a sport route. If you want to [amuse] yourself, take some tiny nuts to place 15' above the bolt. The tree near the top can be hitched for top-out pro prior to reaching the bolt-anchors of King Of Pain. You can probably reach these anchors (from which it is possible to TR this route) from a scramble left of mid-route on Gambit.
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