Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: George Bracksieck & Teri Ebel, 1993. Retrobolted: Dan Hare and Susan Simpson, 1995
Page Views: 1,370 total · 7/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Oct 19, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

This is the short, bolted face just down from the chimney where The Radlands of Infinity starts. Though this is certainly not a route, you'll dream about after you do it, it's a fun, short, sport 5.10 for finishing up a day at the Blob. A solid entrance move begins the varied face climbing past a bolt and a small slot for a camming unit. Climbing past the 2nd bolt and off the steep face to the gully is the crux. Cruise up and left to the 2 bolt anchor to set up the top rope.

Protection

Originally, this was done on gear.

Now, 2 bolts, 1 or 2 small camming units.

Photos

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Quite nice. A finger-sized cam protects the first move. A 9 or easy 10 move past the first bolt gets you to a ledge. You can place a #1/red Camalot in the ledge. One or two micro cams get you to the second bolt, but the cams may not be necessary since it's not that hard. The crux, at the second bolt, is essentially toproped. If you're going to toprope the second, place a #2/gold Camalot before angling left to the anchors. Dec 16, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Quality 40-ft route. Balance is key. Thanks, addendum George, Teri, and Dan, again! You can also TR a similar-difficulty line between the 5.7 OW to the L & this route from the same anchors. Aug 25, 2004
Really nice route - too bad it isn't longer! Nov 19, 2007
I led this climb in May, 1993, before "first ascent" and bolt installation by Dan. I placed a couple of ballnuts, etc. Teri Ebel followed me up this pitch. May 30, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10c
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10c
This is a fun route, and I agree that it is too bad it is not longer. Nov 3, 2013
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
The mixed metal anchor has been upgraded to full stainless steel thanks to the BCC's bolt replacement program. Please support them if you don't already. Dec 20, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10c
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10c
Thanks for upgrading the anchor! Dec 21, 2015