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Routes in Main Wall

Astrophysics T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Center Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Charisma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cold Fusion T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
David Schwimmer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagles Are People Too T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Erickson's Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Get Shorty T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen To Like T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
October Surprise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Olympic Swimmer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On Ballet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P1 of Astrophysics (aka Bolt Cola) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pool Skimmer T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reamer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Resolution T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Shimmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slimmer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Talon Contest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Where Eagles Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: George Bracksieck & Teri Ebel, 1993. Retrobolted: Dan Hare and Susan Simpson, 1995
Page Views: 1,283 total · 7/month
Shared By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Oct 19, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is the short, bolted face just down from the chimney where The Radlands of Infinity starts. Though this is certainly not a route, you'll dream about after you do it, it's a fun, short, sport 5.10 for finishing up a day at the Blob. A solid entrance move begins the varied face climbing past a bolt and a small slot for a camming unit. Climbing past the 2nd bolt and off the steep face to the gully is the crux. Cruise up and left to the 2 bolt anchor to set up the top rope.

Protection

Originally, this was done on gear.

Now, 2 bolts, 1 or 2 small camming units.

Photos

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Quite nice. A finger-sized cam protects the first move. A 9 or easy 10 move past the first bolt gets you to a ledge. You can place a #1/red Camalot in the ledge. One or two micro cams get you to the second bolt, but the cams may not be necessary since it's not that hard. The crux, at the second bolt, is essentially toproped. If you're going to toprope the second, place a #2/gold Camalot before angling left to the anchors. Dec 16, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Quality 40-ft route. Balance is key. Thanks, addendum George, Teri, and Dan, again! You can also TR a similar-difficulty line between the 5.7 OW to the L & this route from the same anchors. Aug 25, 2004
Really nice route - too bad it isn't longer! Nov 19, 2007
I led this climb in May, 1993, before "first ascent" and bolt installation by Dan. I placed a couple of ballnuts, etc. Teri Ebel followed me up this pitch. May 30, 2011
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10c
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10c
This is a fun route, and I agree that it is too bad it is not longer. Nov 3, 2013
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
The mixed metal anchor has been upgraded to full stainless steel thanks to the BCC's bolt replacement program. Please support them if you don't already. Dec 20, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.10c
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.10c
Thanks for upgrading the anchor! Dec 21, 2015

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