Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: A. Nelson, 2000
Page Views: 751 total · 4/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Oct 6, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a fun gear protected pitch on the south face of Blob, directly between Simmer and Shimmer (just right of the red line in the photo below). The Rolofson guide lists this as 5.10R, but we thought this route was no harder than 5.8, at most easy 5.9, with the crux being reasonably well protected. The easier sections of this pitch tend to be runout though.

The climb starts in a thin crack and wanders over easy terrain up to a steep short left-facing dihedral, just above a pegmatite band. Pulling through the dihedral is the crux, and is protected by a good stopper placement. Continue upward on moderate climbing, converging with the route on the right (and clipping one of its bolts), to a set of anchors.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Detrick Snyder
Michigan, for now
Detrick Snyder   Michigan, for now
With the head-level bolt at the crux and an opposed RP and microcam on the terrain before that, this route does not warrant an R-rating. Aug 26, 2015