Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Dan Hare, Michelle Hale, Noel Childs, January 2004
Page Views: 1,825 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Nov 12, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

The last pitch of Charisma starts at the bolt anchor atop the second pitch of October Surprise and follows a line of eleven bolts up an obtuse corner to a 2-bolt lowering anchor. (The first pitch of Charisma is currently documented on MP.com as the first pitch of October Surprise).

The climbing is sustained, interesting and technical all the way up the route, with lots of 5.10 moves and several 5.11 cruxes. The hardest moves are at a bulge halfway up and at a technical stemming corner at the top of the pitch. The second bolt is very close to the third and may be skipped.

Lower from the top anchor, then do two rappels down October Surprise with a 60m rope to get back down. Angle the last rappel to the rappeller's right, toward the start of On Ballet. This leaves you on a small ledge 15' off the deck with an easy downclimb.

Great moves all the way up the pitch, but the experience is marred by crispy holds, friable rock, and lichen.

Protection

11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos