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Astrophysics T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Center Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Charisma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cold Fusion T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
David Schwimmer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagles Are People Too T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Erickson's Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Get Shorty T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen To Like T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
October Surprise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Olympic Swimmer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On Ballet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P1 of Astrophysics (aka Bolt Cola) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pool Skimmer T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reamer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Resolution T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Shimmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slimmer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Talon Contest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Where Eagles Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Dan Hare, Michelle Hale, Noel Childs, January 2004
Page Views: 1,393 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Nov 12, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The last pitch of Charisma starts at the bolt anchor atop the second pitch of October Surprise and follows a line of eleven bolts up an obtuse corner to a 2-bolt lowering anchor. (The first pitch of Charisma is currently documented on MP.com as the first pitch of October Surprise).

The climbing is sustained, interesting and technical all the way up the route, with lots of 5.10 moves and several 5.11 cruxes. The hardest moves are at a bulge halfway up and at a technical stemming corner at the top of the pitch. The second bolt is very close to the third and may be skipped.

Lower from the top anchor, then do two rappels down October Surprise with a 60m rope to get back down. Angle the last rappel to the rappeller's right, toward the start of On Ballet. This leaves you on a small ledge 15' off the deck with an easy downclimb.

Great moves all the way up the pitch, but the experience is marred by crispy holds, friable rock, and lichen.

Protection

11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Steve Annecone
boulder
 
Steve Annecone   boulder
 
Reading the past comments... not so dirty now, most of the friable stuff has cleaned up. Still a bit of lichen here and there, but the quality climbing makes up for it. Jan 31, 2017
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
5.10+
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
5.10+
George, my recollection is you didn't touch that loose block. You did some great stemming as I recall. Dec 30, 2013
Or didn't. Dec 29, 2013
Yes, ssp, I'm old enough to take up golf, which could provide a solution to diminishing returns: handicap. Once you've hoarded over 63 years, which I had when I flashed this route, you get to clip all the bolts. (If not, you have to skip every other one.) And for every year past 60, you may increase the rating by a letter grade (5.6b becomes 5.6c). Another bennie: The more I climb, the more easily entertained I am (5.6b seems as challenging in 2013 as 5.6c was in 2012).

What loose block? Oh yeah.... If I didn't have to use it, you won't. (If I can't remember touching it, that doesn't mean that I did.) Dec 29, 2013
gregsmiller
Louisville
gregsmiller   Louisville
How big is the loose block, and is it avoidable? Nov 5, 2013
ssp
ssp  
You're getting old, George! May 18, 2013
Led this on 1/31/13. I found it to be continuously challenging and interesting, with lots of stemming. Yes, it has more bolts than it needs; yet I clipped all. Feb 2, 2013
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
5.10+
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
5.10+
The third pitch as described here seems to have cleaned up enough to make it reasonable and fun to climb. There is a left hand chip that flexes somewhere near where you reach out right to the rounded arete, maybe at 1/3 height. That feature out left of the last bolt shifts. It seems to be a detached bit of rock. Not wanting to harm my belayer, I left it alone. Be careful not to pry it outward with your left hand or foot. Feb 1, 2013
Icky and offensive. It looks like a bolt ladder: several hangers are spaced less than two feet apart. Man, c'mon. We don't need this. May 22, 2011
Did this route with Joe Chorny yesterday. There is still some loose rock on i,t but it wasn't that bad. Perhaps it has cleaned up some in the last couple years. The key down low is to use the arete on the right. It deserves a star. 11a sport is about right mostly continuous 10 moves. Nov 19, 2007
Dana Ernst  
 
This is one of the worst climbs I've done in a while. If you do decide to do it, bring safety glasses to protect the eyes from lichen flakes. Also, brushing it on the way down might improve the climb for future ascents. Nov 26, 2005
brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA
 
brent pohlmann   San Francisco, CA
 
This is the filthiest route on Earth next to some obscure route on The Thing, and no amount of time will EVER get this thing to clean up. How does this route get two stars and Hike for Y2K gets one? If you want to have a nice time at Blob Rock, don't waste your time doing this thing. There are a ton of other routes that are much better. Nov 25, 2005
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.11a
I'm reposting this warning that I posted under October Surprise on 1/9/05:WARNING: The pillar left of the top 2 bolts moves. It looks like an integral part of the wall, but when Chuck stemmed against it, it shifted a couple of inches. Nov 15, 2005