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Astrophysics T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Center Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Charisma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cold Fusion T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
David Schwimmer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagles Are People Too T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Erickson's Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Get Shorty T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen To Like T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
October Surprise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Olympic Swimmer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On Ballet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P1 of Astrophysics (aka Bolt Cola) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pool Skimmer T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reamer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Resolution T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Shimmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slimmer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Talon Contest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Where Eagles Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 438 total, 17/month
Shared By: Greg Barnes on Oct 21, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Left of the route with black-painted hangers (Olympic Swimmer) is a short corner with what appears to be a large detached block on the left side of the corner (actually attached on top so not detached). Above this corner is a hard-to-spot tan painted bolt. Start up the corner (gear), with a cruxy pull left into the finger crack, up to the bolt, then wander up easy terrain (gear) to a second bolt at a shallow groove. Do another crux, and then climb easy terrain straight up to the bolted anchor.

Per Jason Haas: this is distinct from the first pitch of The Reamer.

Location

Left of the route with black-painted hangers (Olympic Swimmer) is a short corner with what appears to be a large detached block on the left side of the corner (actually attached on top so not detached). Above this corner is a hard-to-spot tan painted bolt. Start up the corner (gear).

Protection

Pro to 3" and two retrobolts. Thin pro is required for the crux moving left out of the starting corner before you get up to the first bolt.

Photos

I would like to clear up some misinformation/history on this route. I re-climbed these routes twice (once last week and once the week before that). I also tracked down first ascentionists and asked several people that have done both The Reamer and Lichen to Like to clear this up. This pitch, as described here, is a new route known as Pool Skimmer. It does cross Lichen to Like at about the 60-65-foot mark, just below the second retrobolt (below the shallow groove). Lichen to Like keeps angling up and right along the crack system to gain the ledge at the higher of the two bolted anchors (where the still intact webbing nest is around the chockstone). We did not place any bolts on our ascent (lead or anchor). I am not a fan of retrobolts, and while I recognize I did not publish our route on mountainproject, I did give the information to both Rossiter and D’Antonio for their respective books. Unfortunately, the route never made it into D’Antonio’s books as Rossiter never updated his book (as of yet). In that regards, I do not blame the retrobolter for the bolts, but it would be nice to see them removed and patched. Nov 29, 2015
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.7+
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.7+
This does seem easier than 5.9. I gave it 7+ because it may be slightly harder than its neighbor to the right. Nov 22, 2015
Greg Barnes  
 
Your partner agreed as well? Huh, maybe I was having an off day, I'll try it again next time up there - you did start by stemming up the dihedral and moving left into the finger crack?

And no, I'm not too strong, it's been years (and 2 kids) since I onsighted harder than 9+, and even at my very strongest 11- was my max. Never even toproped a single 11c face clean (followed a few cracks up to there). Kept pulling finger tendons on face, cracks are my friend.... Nov 20, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.7
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.7
I am one opinion in many, but my partner did happen to agree.
I think with the very extensive mileage I get on routes at that grade (sometimes over 1000' in a day at that grade) I am attuned to it, but if consensus says otherwise, I'll be proven wrong.
Regardless, by that logic, aren't you too strong to rate this as well? Nov 19, 2015
Greg Barnes  
 
No offense, Tony, but maybe you're too strong of a climber to accurately rate this? There's no way those moves left out of the initial stemming dihedral into the finger crack are anywhere near 5.7, you'll get someone hurt rating it that way (particularly with the thin pro). Maybe you climbed up to the first bolt a different way? Nov 16, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.7
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.7
Seriously over-graded. 5.7 for one move at the bottom and one move near the top. Nov 15, 2015
15 years ago Craig Weinhold and I went up to Blob Rock for some wintertime cragging, and I unfortunately had forgotten my climbing shoes. Not wanting to squander a perfect t-shirt weather winter day, we made the best of it. We climbed this and the other two unknown routes that day (amongst all the Shimmer/Simmer routes). It's a shame they have been bolted. Nov 8, 2015