Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Richard and Joyce Rossiter, 1983.
Page Views: 6,147 total · 28/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


Nice three pitch route with surprising climbing. On the left side of Blob rock--start twenty feet or so down the hill from a large detached flake (on the ground) and climb an easy ramp up to a small ledge.

P1. Start the roped climbing here--a thin crack that angles to the right. Then head back to the left around the corner and up the the steep dihedral. This takes good gear and is solid 8+ stemming--belay on a small edge up a ramp after the dihedral.

P2: Right from the belay anchors, traverse straight right (intimidating but easy) to a R-facing dihedral and move up the thin crack (9) that also has some bomber holds. After the crack ends, traverse left slightly, place a #2 Friend or similar at your feet on a narrow ledge, then make some runout moves up the dike system. A small TCU can be placed about 1/2 way through this slab section in a shallow pocket. Now angle up and left toward the large chimney. Climb up the chimney a short way and locate two bolts. This pitch will create a lot of rope drag if you're not careful.

P3: Take the right-hand face/crack out of the chimney for a short way until a large ledge. You can go straight up to a huge ledge and walk right to a set or rappel anchors (one 60m, two raps). OR, you can 4th class across the top of the chimney to the left, angle left up a ramp with several dead trees, then 4th class back down ramps, always traversing West. When you see the chains for some sport routes, keep 4th classing above them and walk off.


Standard rack--small TCU for slab traverse on P2.
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Don't fall on pitch 2 above that ledge into that dike system. It's 8+ here but a wee bit committing. May be easier for taller chimps. Mar 5, 2002
Good route for those beginning to trad-lead. Crux can be well protected with a small cam (.5) and/or small nut. Great views from up top...5 parties on Cob and Blob was entirely empty. Jun 24, 2002
P1 from the ground to the ledge felt like the crux to me. While the start to P2 was difficult to protect there is no way this is 5.9..airy but not 5.9. Two ropes *might* get one down to the top of Bolt Cola if you want to skip the last pitch or finish the climb, walk NE around the ledge to the rap anchor that puts you down near the start of Bolt Cola, 1x50m rope is plenty for this (2 raps)...The anchor is down and over the edge but there is a single bolt on the wall next to the ledge to offer some protection while threading the rope...slings are a little crispy (as of 8/3/02) and need to be replaced. Aug 5, 2002
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
An excellent climb with an inobvious line; almost as good as Bitty Buttress. Take some time to study the route before you set off.

The first pitch has good pro at start and finish, but has an easy run-out slab in the middle. The steep upper corner has some great stemming and an airy step left at the finish; solid 5.8 to 5.8+.

Traverse straight right to start the second pitch, and use small cams to protect the airy moves into the right-facing corner. Lots of good holds keep this at 5.8, not 5.9. The slab above is a little scary; you have to make several thin face moves with pro below your feet. I got a #1 Camalot for pro before launching onto the slab. You can then get two finger-size cams for pro as you move left to the chimney.

The third pitch is short and leaves you on a big ledge; thread a block for a belay anchor.

The rappel descent described in a previous comment is the easiest way off. Traverse right several hundred feet, passing an exposed section, to the first rappel. Look for a bolt just above the ledge and two bolts with slings and rings just below the ledge. The slings were replaced on 10/26/04 by Bruce Hildenbrand.

Rappel to a good ledge with another bolt anchor, and do a second rappel that drops you in the gully on the right side of the rock. Oct 27, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
An alternative to the 3rd pitch is to climb "Erickson's Crack" up the vertical wall to the left. This is rated 10c in Rossiter's guide and felt to me at least that hard. This climb is not in the current database (I'd add it myself but I can't remember much more than this). Oct 27, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Must be getting old...but the pictures don't stir memories. Nonetheless, if you don't like "walking off," you can rap from a good anchor L of the chimney at the start of the walkoff ledge to the 2 bolt anchor of P2 and then to the ground with 2 ropes. Oct 27, 2004
We climbed this as a party of three yesterday. We all concurred that the first pitch had the most difficult climbng on the route, maybe because the "crux" on pitch 2 is just so damn fun-!? Steep climbing, but clean moves on good holds made it seem no harder than 5.8 to me. We walked right at the top as described above by Ron Olsen and did one double rope rap with two 60 meter ropes and easily made it all the way to the ground. Nov 16, 2004
sam flournoy
estes park, co
sam flournoy   estes park, co
For posterity . . .a pretty good route and longish for Boulder Canyon to boot. There were some bolts out left (part of another route, i suppose) for a slightly steeper start. As stated above, small to medium cams are nice at the crux, runner them long and watch out for some loose rock getting out of the overhang. There were a couple holds that probably shouldn't have had any chalk on em. That's it. Apr 4, 2005
Ron Olsen, Dale Haas and I replaced the slings on the rappel off the right side of the walk-off ledge with quick links and links of chain.

Hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Oct 25, 2005
Shane Zentner
Shane Zentner   Colorado
I found a pair of soiled panties tucked under a rock at the end of the second pitch about four years ago. Other than that, a very good line. The second pitch is exciting, sans panties. Mar 24, 2007
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Me panties...now if I could only remember where I left my black Alien. Kiddin' about the panties. Mar 25, 2007
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
I had fun climbing this yesterday in a single pitch with a 70m. I ran it out quite a bit to conserve gear and minimize rope drag. With a 60m I think the second would need to scramble up a ways on the very easy rock at the bottom. Nov 2, 2008
Mark Roth
Mark Roth   Boulder
After the 3rd pitch, you can hop across the chimney to the left and get to the anchor above Erickson's Crack. 3 raps with a single rope and you are back @ your pack.... May 8, 2010
Did it on Sunday. Probably shouldn't say this, but it was a pleasure to climb this on a weekend in the Canyon while just across the road Cobb Rock was busier than a one-armed paper hanger.

It is true, don't fall on P2, but a few thoughts I haven't seen posted here about that part of the climb:

1. There *is* small, flaring crack (like 2-3" wide) on the traverse over to the dike system that will take a good amount of air time off any fall in the dike system. Someone mentioned one at foot level, now, I *am* short, but this was clearly at chest/neck level for most people. It ate a green C3 and an Alien really easily, and while I was getting fancy with route finding (e.g. finding a way around the dike system), I took a lead fall on them and they held. It's a good placement if you just give it some attention.

2. The move into the dike system appears to be really scary/sketchy (at least to me and my partner). It's nothing we agreed we would have ever thought twice about and we've done moves like that so many times in the past without even thinking about it. But, there isn't very good recovery from losing your smear while you unweight the other foot to make the move (read: really, none) because the hands aren't wonderful here, and it is on the runout portion of the lead without good air below you to fall into (read: there isn't great air to fall into, not bad, but not a fall you want to take for fun, esp if you have previous falls to remind you of what happens when you fall in similar circumstances :). Anyway, the move into the dike system is nice, and once I did it I felt like a schmuck for being scared of it.

Anyway, hope my small yet wordy beta helps. Aug 31, 2010
I climbed this route in 1981 with Mike Endicott. I led the second (crux) pitch. May 30, 2011
Conor Felletter
Boulder, CO
Conor Felletter   Boulder, CO
There are now bolted anchors at the tops of both P1 and P2. You can rap from the top of P2 (end of the good stuff) back to the ground in two raps. We used a 70, but I think a 60 would suffice. Bring small gear. It's easy climbing, but the cruxes are mainly mental (runouts or exposure). Jan 30, 2016