Avg: 1 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Ivan Rezucha, 01/02/06|
|Page Views:||1,206 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||Ivan Rezucha on Jan 1, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, email@example.com, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Resolution climbs a nice, fun line left of the recently added first pitch to October Surprise. It finishes left of the 10d middle pitch of Under the Eagle's Wing. It is likely a combination of several variations climbed in the past by various people, and thus I'm suggesting this is a FRA, First Recorded Ascent, rather than an FA.
The gear is decent, but due to the reachy nature of several moves, this may be S and harder than 9- for the reach-impaired.
One, maybe 1 1/2 stars. Not quite as nice as P1 of On Ballet due mostly to the inconsistent difficulty. The rock quality is good. On the easier knobby slabs, the gear is sparse, but adequate, and this keeps the interest level up.
Approach: From the top of the Blob approach trail where it meets the crag at the gully, walk left until just before a large vertical flake at the base of the wall. Under the Eagle's Wing starts at the right side of that flake. A little to the right of that you will see two bolts which are the start of the new first pitch of October Surprise. Just left of that is a short, right-facing corner capped by a roof, the start of Resolution.
P1: Climb the corner and swing left through the roof (or perhaps chimney up past the overhang). Protect your second, then angle gently left along grooves following a vague, white dike that becomes more prominent higher up. At one point, where it starts to get a bit difficult, step right and up to another slab. Continue easily to the base of a vertical headwall. To your left is a right-leaning offwidth crack. Get gear high and left then undercling and make a long reach diagonally right across the steep face to an incut jug. You will need approximately a 6' wing span to make this reach. It may be possible to do this move some other, more difficult way. Plan B would be to climb the offwidth through the bulge (not trivial). Bring a #4.5 Camalot for that. Back to the jug... step right across the face and up an easy slab. Angle left a bit to regain the white dike. At a dirty, thin, right-leaning crack through a bulge, step left onto a slab and up to a ledge. Belay somewhere here or traverse right to the On Ballet/October Surprise bolts. If you've managed the rope drag well, continue with P2.
P2: The steep, right-facing corner with a thin crack is Under the Eagle's Wing. Traverse left from the base of that corner* about 6' until it is possible to step up and right into the next shallow, right-facing corner. Get gear high then rock around left onto a foothold and stand. No gear here despite the thin crack at your face. Reach high, if you can, to a knob, and step up to reach past the bulging face to a horizontal. A #2 Camalot protects the easy move onto the upper slab. You are now on the easy slabs on the right side of the Central Chimney. Continue up easily past the right side of a huge block to the bolts at the top of P2 of On Ballet and October Surprise.
- Possible variation: Climb throught the overhang at a jug just left of Under the Eagle's Wing corner at 5.10 or so. Continue up the shallow and friable, left-facing corner or step left to the right facing corner of Resolution. The left-facing corner takes a decent brass nut about halfway up, and it looks like there's a good hold at the top.
Descent: Two rappels with a 60m rope from bolts with rings. Angle right on the first rappel to get to the anchors for On Ballet/October Surprise.