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Routes in Main Wall

Astrophysics T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Center Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Charisma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cold Fusion T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
David Schwimmer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagles Are People Too T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Erickson's Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Get Shorty T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen To Like T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
October Surprise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Olympic Swimmer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On Ballet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P1 of Astrophysics (aka Bolt Cola) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pool Skimmer T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reamer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Resolution T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Shimmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slimmer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Talon Contest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Where Eagles Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Reveley and Dudley Chelton, 1974
Page Views: 649 total, 3/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

We went up to Blob Rock while on our way to ice climb. We decided it would be more fun to hit the rock. Our intent was to climb On Ballet or Where Eagles Dare, but we didn't have a book and didn't know where they went. Instead, we climbed whatever looked cool and 5.9-.10ish. This climb looked really cool and not too hard, although it is quite a bit harder than it looks.

P1. Start right at the base where the trail hits the cliff and climb up broken ramps for a 5.7 pitch. Belay at a huge block with some fixed tat wraped around it.

P2. From here, the climb arcs up and left out an overhanging face towards an arete. It looks sort of like Rosy Crucifixion but going left instead of right. The second pitch is sustained 5.9 to the traverse, which is the crux. Place some good pro and then yard off a couple of incuts and bad slopers with no feet. The reach is LONG. This is burly, and I fell four times here before backing off. It had good pro, so I don't know where the s comes from except that there is possible deckout potential onto a ledge up until this point, but only if you suck at placing gear. The crux fall is clean, though. According to Rossiter, pull the traverse and step around the arete onto a slab and climb up until a ledge is reached.

All I can say is this route is f*cking cool, so go and give it a try. If you do, you'll probably see me up there working it.

Protection

There are no bolts on this route. A standard trad rack should pretty much cover it.

Photos

The second pitch is not quite as bad using small cams (like Aliens, etc) and not passive pro, but maybe still be "R" because of the potential fragility of the placements near the end and the fall potential (falling is not recommended on this one). A very cool pitch! Diagonal up and left and belay at 2 ring bolts on the upper right edge. Do Erickson's or Under the Eagle's Wing to finish up a 3rd pitch!!! Jan 26, 2010