Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dougald MacDonald, Sari Nicoll
Page Views: 559 total · 3/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on May 7, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

This could be seen as either a variation to the last pitch of Where Eagles Dare or an independent climb in the same vein as Decade Dance or Aging Time. It starts at the bolt anchor over the roof on Where Eagles Dare (also the end of the sport route Respite). Move left and through a bulge on a hand crack, then hand traverse left about 10 feet above the roof (5.8 or 5.9). Keep moving up and left until you're in a vague corner system, about six feet right of the prow. Climb straight up, passing a very tricky crux with small-wire pro, a steep lieback, and easier crack climbing to the top.

There is still a lot of lichen on this line, so it's tough to assess its difficulty -- hard 5.10 seems a good place to start. I will return when I get a chance and brush it. Already it's a much more interesting finish to Where Eagles Dare than the normal cracks. It's got great position, perfect pro, and really fun climbing.

Protection

Bring RPs and/or a very small stopper.

Photos

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Dougald MacDonald  
  5.10+
I went back and brushed the worst lichen off this route a couple of weeks ago. Enjoy! An excellent, four-pitch 5.10 link-up can be done by climbing the first two pitches of Where Eagles Dare, the second pitch of Blacklight (5.10 corner and hand traverse above the big ledge, a bit dirty from under-use but well-protected and exciting), and then finishing on Talon Contest. This adds up to one of the most continuous and interesting long 5.10s in Boulder Canyon. Oct 10, 2003