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Astrophysics T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Center Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Charisma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cold Fusion T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
David Schwimmer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagles Are People Too T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Erickson's Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Get Shorty T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen To Like T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
October Surprise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Olympic Swimmer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On Ballet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P1 of Astrophysics (aka Bolt Cola) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pool Skimmer T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reamer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Resolution T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Shimmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slimmer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Talon Contest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Where Eagles Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dan Hare & Mike Downing, 1987
Page Views: 821 total, 8/month
Shared By: tbol on Dec 7, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route begins with either pitch 1 of Bolt Cola or the shallow crack one route left (5.10a), belay at the anchor for Bolt Cola.

Pitch two heads up and slightly left to an old bolt and fixed pin right next to each other. From here, head up and slightly right over a small roof to a ledge with a giant, and very cool, eagle's nest (9+ S). The rock here is a little suspect, as are some of the gear placements; be careful not to disturb the eagle's nest. Also, the belay for the second pitch is tat around a possibly questionable flake; good hand-sized pieces will make this belay bomber though.

From the ledge, launch directly up into sequential and somewhat tenuous climbing through a thin feature that arcs up and right (12a). The bolts here are old and questionable, with the third being the best. As of right now the rope hanging from the third is also in poor condition. I suggest not clipping it. Right at the third bolt is the crux, but several in obvious moves lead up into the left-facing corner above that used to be protected by a fixed pin. I placed two very small nuts here that both blew when I pumped out and whipped on them. The fall is clean but watchout for the ledge below, it is very possible you may hit it from a fall above the third bolt. Once established in the corner above, place good gear and head straight up the finish of Center Direct to a large belay ledge.

To descend, take this same class 3/class 4 walk off ledge to the left.

Protection

Light rack with a couple hand size pieces and emphasis on small stuff, ~10 QDs.
Pitch three probably deserves an R rating now that the fixed pin is gone.

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tbol
Front Range, CO.
 
tbol   Front Range, CO.
 
Sounds great, Jason. Looking forward to it! Feb 2, 2016
Fantastic, tbol! I'd like to redpoint the route now that it has safer hardware. I also brushed it a bit, so the top should be nicer, too. Let's be in touch once the closures lift. Feb 2, 2016
tbol
Front Range, CO.
 
tbol   Front Range, CO.
 
Jason,

Thanks for replacing the bolts!!! I have been meaning to for some time. You are right, it was an understatement on my end in regards to their poor condition. I am actually good friends with Dan, and he has told me numerous times to put a bolt where the pin used to be, especially if I were to upgrade the existing hardware. I would be happy to go up there some time with you and finish the job. I have a bunch of stainless hardware I am happy to contribute. I know that Dan would be stoked, too. It is a pretty good pitch! Let me know if you are interested in teaming up.

Todd Feb 1, 2016
I didn't know what to expect with a comment like the "bolts are old and questionable, with the third being the best". Turns out that was a bit of an understatement. The first two bolts were buttonheads with Leeper hangers and the second one was half pulled and bent. I wouldn't have trusted it to hold body weight personally, let alone a lead fall. The third bolt was a wedge bolt with a thin SMC hanger that's collar wouldn't tighten in the hole with a wrench - it just kept spinning and wiggling and could be slightly pulled out of the hole with a quickdraw. But indeed, it was the best of the lot :)

Anyway, I replaced all three bolts and I attempted to replace the missing Fixed Pin as well. The new pin wouldn't really bite well and as it protects the finishing moves of the business, I was not confident in its longevity. I talked to Dan Hare (FA) about it and he encouraged replacing the pin with a bolt. Personally, I'd be in favor of that as well. Jan 31, 2016