Type: Trad, 210 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Scott Woodruff, Dan Hare, Brad Gilbert, 1975
Page Views: 9,731 total · 45/month
Shared By: George Bell on Aug 10, 2001 with improvements by doug haller and 1 other
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

This was one of the most (in)famous 5.9 trad routes in Boulder Canyon - that is until it was upgraded to 10b in Rossiter's latest guide. The route begins about 50' right of the bolted route "Bolt Cola" behind a large talus block.

P1. Head up a slab with occasional cracks to a large roof about 60' up. The crux tackles this roof directly via an overhanging corner with a very thin crack in the back. You can place good gear down low, but higher up the corner where the crux is, your pro consists of RPs. Back when this was rated 9+ we used to piss and moan about how Dan Hare could call this 5.9. The exit moves above the roof are exciting and thin, then traverse right to a nice 2 bolt anchor (courtesy Dan Hare). 80'.

It is possible to climb around the crux on the left, which is really the route "Center Direct (5.9+)". This involves an awkward hand traverse left along a leaning crack which begins where the normal crux does. Not recommended unless you forgot your RPs.

P2. The second pitch climbs a crackless corner and/or the slab to the right, and ends at the eagle's nest where the climb got its name. This pitch is only about 60' long and has very little pro. It used to be 5.8 but has been upgraded to 5.9 in the latest guide. I'd still call it 5.8 s. 35'.

P3. The final exciting pitch moves right through a roof on a steep, exposed flake, turns the corner and heads straight up beautiful hand cracks to the top. Watch your pro when you are turning the corner to avoid rope drag on this long pitch. 105'.

Walk west from the summit to descend or rappel 160' off a bolted anchor with chains just 12 feet to the right.

Protection

Standard rack to 3" plus RPs.

Per doug haller: the anchor of P1 has a single cold-shut and a bold stud without hanger. If you have a hanger and a nut, it looks like a 3/8" bolt. If you read this, consider bringing a hanger and nut and crescent wrench to update the anchor. We slung the bolt with a wire stopper, but this did not inspire confidence as the next pitch is run-out 5.8. Folks who are used to climbing well-protected sport routes and splitter cracks will probably find this route mentally challenging. Be solid at the grade. The route has quality rock and good gear if you know how to place it. Take brass nuts for the first pitch and 0 cams for P2. Considering when this route was first done, it was an impressive lead at the time.

On 12/13/17, Josh LaMar added new bolts, links, and rap rings for P1 anchor: cdn-files.apstatic.com/clim….

Photos