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Routes in Main Wall

Astrophysics T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Center Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Charisma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cold Fusion T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
David Schwimmer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagles Are People Too T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Erickson's Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Get Shorty T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen To Like T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
October Surprise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Olympic Swimmer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On Ballet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P1 of Astrophysics (aka Bolt Cola) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pool Skimmer T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reamer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Resolution T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Shimmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slimmer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Talon Contest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Where Eagles Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Scott Woodruff, Dan Hare, Brad Gilbert, 1975
Page Views: 9,023 total · 45/month
Shared By: George Bell on Aug 10, 2001 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This was one of the most (in)famous 5.9 trad routes in Boulder Canyon - that is until it was upgraded to 10b in Rossiter's latest guide. The route begins about 50' right of the bolted route "Bolt Cola" behind a large talus block.

P1. Head up a slab with occasional cracks to a large roof about 60' up. The crux tackles this roof directly via an overhanging corner with a very thin crack in the back. You can place good gear down low, but higher up the corner where the crux is, your pro consists of RPs. Back when this was rated 9+ we used to piss and moan about how Dan Hare could call this 5.9. The exit moves above the roof are exciting and thin, then traverse right to a nice 2 bolt anchor (courtesy Dan Hare). 80'.

It is possible to climb around the crux on the left, which is really the route "Center Direct (5.9+)". This involves an awkward hand traverse left along a leaning crack which begins where the normal crux does. Not recommended unless you forgot your RPs.

P2. The second pitch climbs a crackless corner and/or the slab to the right, and ends at the eagle's nest where the climb got its name. This pitch is only about 60' long and has very little pro. It used to be 5.8 but has been upgraded to 5.9 in the latest guide. I'd still call it 5.8 s. 35'.

P3. The final exciting pitch moves right through a roof on a steep, exposed flake, turns the corner and heads straight up beautiful hand cracks to the top. Watch your pro when you are turning the corner to avoid rope drag on this long pitch. 105'.

Walk west from the summit to descend or rappel 160' off a bolted anchor with chains just 12 feet to the right.

Protection

Standard rack to 3" plus RPs.

Per doug haller: the anchor of P1 has a single cold-shut and a bold stud without hanger. If you have a hanger and a nut, it looks like a 3/8" bolt. If you read this, consider bringing a hanger and nut and crescent wrench to update the anchor. We slung the bolt with a wire stopper, but this did not inspire confidence as the next pitch is run-out 5.8. Folks who are used to climbing well-protected sport routes and splitter cracks will probably find this route mentally challenging. Be solid at the grade. The route has quality rock and good gear if you know how to place it. Take brass nuts for the first pitch and 0 cams for P2. Considering when this route was first done, it was an impressive lead at the time.

On 12/13/17, Josh LaMar added new bolts, links, and rap rings for P1 anchor: cdn-files.apstatic.com/clim….
303scott
  5.10b/c
303scott  
  5.10b/c
I would recommend running this in two pitches. P1 - ground to the top of the .8 runout section (skip intermediate bolted anchor), and belay at a bolted anchor just under the big roof. P2 run to the top. We carried a #4 but didn't use it. Felt the crux was well-protected with a #5 or so, BD stopper at your chest and a red Alien at your knees when you leave the jug. Not sure if we were on the right route for the final pitch, but it was definitely not .8. 15 feet of steep 0.5 Camalots to 15 feet of steep 0.75s. Great climbing.

There is a new rap anchor climber's left of the finish about 40 feet. With a 70m, you can reach the anchor at the top of guidebook P2 (before the hand traverse). Not a great pull, but our rope came clean. A single 70m rap then gets you to the ground. I doubt a 60m would reach on either rap. Jul 31, 2017
Josh LaMar
Boulder, CO
Josh LaMar   Boulder, CO
Today I rope soloed up to pitch one anchors and replaced them with new hangers, nuts, quicklinks, and rap rings.https://cdn-files.apstatic.com/climb/113926295_medium_1513118971.jpg. It was previously one rusty anchor and one bolt sticking out without a hanger. I hope this inspires more people to climb this route! If you like what I did here, buy me a beer in Venmo (@jolamar), and tell me about a route that needs some lovin'. Cheers! Dec 12, 2017
Le Bob
Lakewood,CO
  5.10b/c R
Le Bob   Lakewood,CO
  5.10b/c R
We thought this climb was garbage. Maybe P3 is nice, if you like awkward overhung exposure. The description of Orange corner in the book is right, but the topo line shows center route, so we tried to link the center route to get to the 2nd anchor on the big ledge. These pitches were very run out, the gear was shit, and the climbing wasn't spectacular. Luckily, using doubles could reduce the heinous link-up meandering. The P1 anchor has only one hanger. We didn't continue up pitch 4, because we wanted to get off of this terrible route after P3, and there were nice anchors right there after the hand crack. Oct 23, 2017
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
I just did this route. Great route. I feel like these posts understate the nature of the first pitch crux which at 5'10" I found extremely hard and scary. Once stemmed in the dihedral, you are on a massive rail which actually has a small flake on it. I slung this flake which I felt was better than the placement. Situated in here it is pretty casual, but I probably stemmed there for over 10 minutes trying to figure out how to pull the crux. You are way above your gear on a slabby mantel that if you blew it you would deck on the slab below the crux dihedral. This is a very serious pitch. To put it into perspective for you, I felt this was scarier than Super Slab, 10d, Northwest Corner, 11a, X-M, 10c which I have led mutliple times.

The rest of the route was fun, especially the hand cracks after turning the corner. Aug 13, 2014
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.10a
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.10a
Did this with Brian today. First of all, awesome climb. It seems to me that everyone has a different experience on this climb. I found the crux of the route for me to be the hand crack leaving the large detached "eagle's nest" flake. However, I suck at all kinds of crack except for my specialty... thin tips. The thin overhang was one move of 5.10a followed by a decent rest to a strange stemming/manteling sequence that just felt a little balancey.

The second pitch was super exciting. I placed about four small, decent pieces right in a row on the left before launching out into the cool sequence on the face to the right. I apparently was having too much fun, because I missed the cam placement on the arete and didn't place until I was about to exit the RF corner, circa~8 ft below the 2nd pitch belay. I love fiddling in RPs above a twenty foot runout. An excellent route. Oct 3, 2009
Great route! P2 was my favorite, but I found the crux in the first pitch easier than some parts of the sustained hand cracks on P3. Loads of fun none the less. Oct 3, 2009
Greg D
Here
  5.10c/d
Greg D   Here
  5.10c/d
Finally I can say I climbed a really good trad line in BC. Found it a bit harder than expected. Not sure if my 5 day fast and losing 13lbs had anything to do with it. But, the first pitch crux felt quite stiff, well protected though. The second pitch is the mental crux, thin slabby climbing with intermittent "ok" gear. Jun 22, 2009
Rogerlarock
Nedsterdam, Colorado
  5.10b PG13
Rogerlarock   Nedsterdam, Colorado
  5.10b PG13
Fer sure one of the BEST routes in BC! P2 overhang is a little heady, but that's what we're out there for, right? Dec 15, 2008
Olaf Mitchell
Paia, Maui, Hi,
Olaf Mitchell   Paia, Maui, Hi,
That's Scott Woodruff, Dan Hare, and Brad Gilbert. Great route, great guys! Dec 15, 2008
I agree with Guy, and here is an excellent 4 pitch variation that captures the best parts of Main Wall:

P1: Climb Bolt Cola to the anchors (10a), 25m.
P2: Lead directly up the white face above on small pro to the prominent traverse rail. Clip a single cold shut, and hand rail across for 20m to the regular belay at the base of p3 of Where Eagles Dare (8+), 30m.
P3: Climb the beginning of the third pitch and belay at the first set of ring anchors, just past the handcrack (10a), 15m.
P4: Climb the rest of the third pitch to the big ledge (10a), 25m.

Just below and climber's right of the top out are a set of rap anchors for a 25m rappel to ring anchors at the base of Decade Dance, then 25m rappel to the gully. Nov 1, 2008
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.10b R
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.10b R
This is one of the best multi-pitch climbs in BC. Every pitch has something unique to offer. The 10b pitch is well protected and straightforward, if you are tall. The second pitch is quite heady, since the crux is protected by a #000 C3 cam. Jan 5, 2008
Rob

I don't recall which way the cam went in. Not a spot to hang around at very long. P2 and the others are much easier than P1 so give it a try if you at the top of P1. Nov 8, 2007
Wait, the small cam...middle lobes up or down? Nov 6, 2007
Climbed this yesterday with Joe Chorny. We both thought this route was great. Here are some comments for what they are worth.

Joe led the first pitch and placed a small nut in the right hand hold needed to pull your feet up into the dihedral. Placing this nut was a long reach, strenuous and required a few tries and some rests in between. The first pitch still has the fixed nut at the top of the crux dihedral. Joe also got a good nut below this and slung the jug horn.

I led the second pitch and thought the gear was mediocre. One could place cams in the pin scars but these would take away the only handholds. I placed a marginal nut in the btm of the larger hold to leave some room. Before making the traverse right a small nut/RP can be placed in the thin crack on the left. Placing the small cam in the horizontal (#0 Friend) wasn't that bad, but the move after that was the hardest. I traversed straight right to the arete and found quite a bit of lichen, perhaps up a move or two and then to the arete is the right way. As for the potential fall on the belay, the belayer could tie in with a few feet of rope and then swing to the right out of harm's way if the leader falls near them.

On the 3rd pitch Joe and I both hand traversed the lip with feet down low instead of trying to grovel sideways. The #4 Camalot is very nice to have here. If you're tall (I'm 6" 2"), you can place or clean the #4 from the belay. The short crack after the grovel is also 9, steep with smooth feet but good jams.

The last pitch was 8-8+ and very nice. It is good to have 3 or more cams in the 0.5-0.75" Camalot size for the middle and upper part of the crack. I ran out of those and had to overcam a #1 Camalot in the final crack.

From the top, traverse 10-15 feet right to a bolted anchor. There is also a single bolt on a boulder a few feet above this anchor. From there, 2 single rope raps will get you to the ground. Nov 6, 2007
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
There's a fixed nut to protect the P1 real crux moves after the jug. The nut has been there over a year. It's been tested... P2 is spicier than I remembered. The small cam in the horizontal is tough to place and very shallow, hanging in on a bump in the crack. Dec 17, 2006
We got on this route today, mid-40s with a frigid, biting wind, so we rapped off at the second set of anchors, frozen. The move into the P1 crux corner can be very well protected, but be sure to dress your runners so that they're out of your way as you pull up into the corner. Once you reach the jugs above, the real crux begins... don't miss the #00 Metolius TCU to your right which Jon Sargent mentions above, the only pro as you stem high and wide using thin crimps to get you up onto the slab. Be sure to place a small stopper as you head right above to the anchors to protect your second from a big swing. We will be back to finish this route! Nov 19, 2004
We also did a variation on the second pitch (see Jake's comments above). From the anchor at the top of the first pitch, continue the traverse right. There are some decent finger underclings, and you can get a medium cam in, then it heads up after about 12-15 feet. The rock seems a bit brittle here in places, and it's fairly dirty, but slam a small wire in and head up and it's worth it. You will gain an arete from which you can see your belayer again--s/he's right below you--and you can get in your smallest cam for pro. Easy climbing from here to the ledge beneath the third pitch. I thought this was to be the most exciting pitch, but then I went on to climb the rest of the route, which continued to be fantastic. Good stuff! Three stars! Look for the rappel slings to the right to save the walk.... Jan 4, 2003
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
More gear info:

At the crux, place a big brass nut. Anything bigger interferes with the finger jam. After the first hard move, you can place a medium stopper on the right edge of the bucket. This is good for a straight out pull, but the rock could break. Above is a small brass, #2HB offset? Use long draws, because as you stem the corner you are pulling straight out on these nuts. If you are as stressed out as I was, you might consider the following two placements: Where the dihedral meets the slab there is a tiny "V" slot. You can place a medium HB (#5?) sideways. After you step up left you can get a good aluminum HB offset (#8?) to your left at hip level. Use a long sling. A regular nut probably wouldn't work here. Can you tell I like the HB offsets? I really like the aluminum bigger ones. I've been using the smaller brass ones since they came out. I also really like the offset cams. I was given the 3 smallest Metolius offset cams for a present and use them all the time.

The second "9s" pitch is more like 8pg. You can get good cams in the corner and a tiny cam in the horizontal as you move right. Another cam on the arete and a brass nut back left in the corner makes this very safe.

For the "crawl" pitch, a #4/purple Camalot would make it very safe. Smaller cams can be placed further left, but you would be facing a ledge fall, or worse if your foot gets stuck and you land on your head. If this pitch is 10a, it must be the crawl that is the crux. The hand crack is very easy.

There are two new bolts at the end of the hand crack that you can rap to the ground from with a 60m rope. It felt a little silly to do the crawl and then rap, but we were cold. Dec 21, 2002
TBD
TBD  
From the ground, this climb just looks ok; however it is great, a must do in my opinion. The last pitch looks like a walk up after the short hand [crack] section, but there is good climbing from top to bottom. Sep 29, 2002
Great route! I would suggest doing it in two pitches, [especially] linking one and two. A fall on the second pitch would send the leader directly into the belayer. As for the crux, I was able to protect the initial move into the corner with a solid # 3 RP placement and found what was a solid #00 TCU (grey) placement to [protect] the move exiting the corner. 1 long [rappel] with a 60 meter rope (the anchor is slings, climber's right after topping out) and a bit of down climbing gets you to the gully where Jolt Cola is located. Sep 23, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Great route. Stiff for even the 10b rating. You can definitely get a wire or Alien in the crack at the crux. It's strenuous. It's a wee bit awkward & committing to move up onto the slab. The second pitch can definitely be protected on good gear with wires, Aliens. It's a long way to walk off this bugger. Mar 5, 2002
Jake Martin-- There are some great variations that make this climb go at 9+ or 10a. As described in George's description, at the first pitch crux, you can go up a weird hand traverse left(the route Center Direct), clip a bolt and then move up and right to the bolted belay. This is kind of runout, but climbs on fairly easy slab. At this point, (the belay) you can go up the 9s corner, left on two bolts, or the variation we did, which is traverse directly right. A bomber yellow alien comes 10 feet off the belay, then continue right on some balancey slab (more bomber gear--keep your eyes open) until you see the a bolt line running up (this bolt line is also visible from the belay) on the right side of the crack/block that is usually accessed from the left (via the normal route). These bolts are only 5.9. Follow them until you reach the crack and onward to the top! Sep 24, 2001

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