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Where Eagles Dare
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 3.2 from 65
votes
Routes in Main Wall
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Astrophysics T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Center Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Charisma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cold Fusion T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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David Schwimmer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eagles Are People Too T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Erickson's Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Get Shorty T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lichen To Like T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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October Surprise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Olympic Swimmer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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On Ballet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Orange Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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P1 of Astrophysics (aka Bolt Cola) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pool Skimmer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reamer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Resolution T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Shimmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Simmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slimmer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Talon Contest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Where Eagles Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Scott Woodruff, Dan Hare, Brad Gilbert, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 11,511 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | George Bell on Aug 10, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Blob Rock, East Blob closed 2/1/24
Details
Seasonal restrictions in Boulder Canyon to protect nesting birds of prey
Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
From W. McCurry: as of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/23. More info can be found: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
Previously: per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
From W. McCurry: as of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/23. More info can be found: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
Previously: per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This was one of the most (in)famous 5.9 trad routes in Boulder Canyon - that is until it was upgraded to 10b in Rossiter's latest guide. The route begins about 50' right of the bolted route "Bolt Cola" behind a large talus block.
P1. Head up a slab with occasional cracks to a large roof about 60' up. The crux tackles this roof directly via an overhanging corner with a very thin crack in the back. You can place good gear down low, but higher up the corner where the crux is, your pro consists of RPs. Back when this was rated 9+ we used to piss and moan about how Dan Hare could call this 5.9. The exit moves above the roof are exciting and thin, then traverse right to a nice 2 bolt anchor (courtesy Dan Hare). 80'.
It is possible to climb around the crux on the left, which is really the route "Center Direct (5.9+)". This involves an awkward hand traverse left along a leaning crack which begins where the normal crux does. Not recommended unless you forgot your RPs.
P2. The second pitch climbs a crackless corner and/or the slab to the right, and ends at the eagle's nest where the climb got its name. This pitch is only about 60' long and has very little pro. It used to be 5.8 but has been upgraded to 5.9 in the latest guide. I'd still call it 5.8 s. 35'.
P3. The final exciting pitch moves right through a roof on a steep, exposed flake, turns the corner and heads straight up beautiful hand cracks to the top. Watch your pro when you are turning the corner to avoid rope drag on this long pitch. 105'.
Walk west from the summit to descend or rappel 160' off a bolted anchor with chains just 12 feet to the right.
P1. Head up a slab with occasional cracks to a large roof about 60' up. The crux tackles this roof directly via an overhanging corner with a very thin crack in the back. You can place good gear down low, but higher up the corner where the crux is, your pro consists of RPs. Back when this was rated 9+ we used to piss and moan about how Dan Hare could call this 5.9. The exit moves above the roof are exciting and thin, then traverse right to a nice 2 bolt anchor (courtesy Dan Hare). 80'.
It is possible to climb around the crux on the left, which is really the route "Center Direct (5.9+)". This involves an awkward hand traverse left along a leaning crack which begins where the normal crux does. Not recommended unless you forgot your RPs.
P2. The second pitch climbs a crackless corner and/or the slab to the right, and ends at the eagle's nest where the climb got its name. This pitch is only about 60' long and has very little pro. It used to be 5.8 but has been upgraded to 5.9 in the latest guide. I'd still call it 5.8 s. 35'.
P3. The final exciting pitch moves right through a roof on a steep, exposed flake, turns the corner and heads straight up beautiful hand cracks to the top. Watch your pro when you are turning the corner to avoid rope drag on this long pitch. 105'.
Walk west from the summit to descend or rappel 160' off a bolted anchor with chains just 12 feet to the right.
Protection
Standard rack to 3" plus RPs.
Per Doug Haller: the anchor of P1 has a single cold-shut and a bold stud without hanger. If you have a hanger and a nut, it looks like a 3/8" bolt. If you read this, consider bringing a hanger and nut and crescent wrench to update the anchor. We slung the bolt with a wire stopper, but this did not inspire confidence as the next pitch is run-out 5.8. Folks who are used to climbing well-protected sport routes and splitter cracks will probably find this route mentally challenging. Be solid at the grade. The route has quality rock and good gear if you know how to place it. Take brass nuts for the first pitch and 0 cams for P2. Considering when this route was first done, it was an impressive lead at the time.
On 12/13/17, Josh LaMar added new bolts, links, and rap rings for P1 anchor: cdn-files.apstatic.com/clim….
Per Doug Haller: the anchor of P1 has a single cold-shut and a bold stud without hanger. If you have a hanger and a nut, it looks like a 3/8" bolt. If you read this, consider bringing a hanger and nut and crescent wrench to update the anchor. We slung the bolt with a wire stopper, but this did not inspire confidence as the next pitch is run-out 5.8. Folks who are used to climbing well-protected sport routes and splitter cracks will probably find this route mentally challenging. Be solid at the grade. The route has quality rock and good gear if you know how to place it. Take brass nuts for the first pitch and 0 cams for P2. Considering when this route was first done, it was an impressive lead at the time.
On 12/13/17, Josh LaMar added new bolts, links, and rap rings for P1 anchor: cdn-files.apstatic.com/clim….
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