Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Jim Erickson and Art Higbee, 1974
Page Views: 2,379 total · 17/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jan 13, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details


Approach this climb with the first two pitches of On Ballet to the bolt anchor in the alcove below the chimney. You will see a mixed line with 3 bolts just to the right of the crack.

This is a great line for those who enjoy thin hand cracks. It would be a four star pitch, if the climbing didn't degrade before the reaching the anchors. The climb starts with 3 side by side cracks. The crux comes in the lower section, which may be as hard as 5.10d for those with large hands. The difficulties ease to 5.10a/b when you reach a good hand jam. Finish up and right at the 2 bolt anchor on the mixed line to the right.

A hidden gem....


This crack is located in the alcove above the 2nd pitch of On Ballet. It is the first crack to the left of the mixed 5.12 line with 3 bolts.


Double set of cams to #2 Camalot, 1 set of md-lg nuts, emphasis on the #0.5-1 cams.