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Erickson's Crack
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.9 from 8
votes
Routes in Main Wall
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Astrophysics T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Center Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Charisma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cold Fusion T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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David Schwimmer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eagles Are People Too T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Erickson's Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Get Shorty T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lichen To Like T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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October Surprise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Olympic Swimmer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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On Ballet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Orange Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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P1 of Astrophysics (aka Bolt Cola) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pool Skimmer T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reamer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Resolution T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Shimmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Simmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slimmer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Talon Contest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Where Eagles Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 75 ft |
| FA: | Jim Erickson and Art Higbee, 1974 |
| Page Views: | 2,152 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Jan 13, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Description
Approach this climb with the first two pitches of On Ballet to the bolt anchor in the alcove below the chimney. You will see a mixed line with 3 bolts just to the right of the crack.
This is a great line for those who enjoy thin hand cracks. It would be a four star pitch, if the climbing didn't degrade before the reaching the anchors. The climb starts with 3 side by side cracks. The crux comes in the lower section, which may be as hard as 5.10d for those with large hands. The difficulties ease to 5.10a/b when you reach a good hand jam. Finish up and right at the 2 bolt anchor on the mixed line to the right.
A hidden gem....
This is a great line for those who enjoy thin hand cracks. It would be a four star pitch, if the climbing didn't degrade before the reaching the anchors. The climb starts with 3 side by side cracks. The crux comes in the lower section, which may be as hard as 5.10d for those with large hands. The difficulties ease to 5.10a/b when you reach a good hand jam. Finish up and right at the 2 bolt anchor on the mixed line to the right.
A hidden gem....
Location
This crack is located in the alcove above the 2nd pitch of On Ballet. It is the first crack to the left of the mixed 5.12 line with 3 bolts.
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