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Routes in Main Wall

Astrophysics T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Center Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Charisma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cold Fusion T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
David Schwimmer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagles Are People Too T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Erickson's Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Get Shorty T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen To Like T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
October Surprise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Olympic Swimmer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On Ballet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P1 of Astrophysics (aka Bolt Cola) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pool Skimmer T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reamer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Resolution T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Shimmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slimmer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Talon Contest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Where Eagles Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Jim Erickson and Art Higbee, 1974
Page Views: 2,121 total, 18/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jan 13, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Approach this climb with the first two pitches of On Ballet to the bolt anchor in the alcove below the chimney. You will see a mixed line with 3 bolts just to the right of the crack.

This is a great line for those who enjoy thin hand cracks. It would be a four star pitch, if the climbing didn't degrade before the reaching the anchors. The climb starts with 3 side by side cracks. The crux comes in the lower section, which may be as hard as 5.10d for those with large hands. The difficulties ease to 5.10a/b when you reach a good hand jam. Finish up and right at the 2 bolt anchor on the mixed line to the right.

A hidden gem....

Location

This crack is located in the alcove above the 2nd pitch of On Ballet. It is the first crack to the left of the mixed 5.12 line with 3 bolts.

Protection

Double set of cams to #2 Camalot, 1 set of md-lg nuts, emphasis on the #0.5-1 cams.

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