Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dean Moore and Charles Alexander, 1962/ FFA: Reveley and Erickson, 1974
Page Views: 831 total · 4/month
Shared By: Chris. T. on Oct 14, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

Start 15-20 feet up the gully from the start of "Where Eagles Dare".

Pitch 1: Climb 15 feet up a slab/arete to a good cam placement, then traverse left across a beautiful slab to the crux overhang on "Where Eagles Dare", but take the horizontal finger crack out left and over a bulge (5.9+). Continue up and left over a somewhat unprotected slab with a finger rail seam to a right-facing corner/notch. Belay at a old piton and a bolt (back it up). Look up to observe the large, old eagle's nest that looms above you.

Pitch 2: Climb up and right through a diagonal offwidth crack then traverse straight right around a bulge. Belay at two bolts (same anchor as Where Eagles Dare).

Pitch 3: Go left to a corner and climb a fridge-like block, place a small nut or RP in a dirty seam. Climb up and right to a shallow corner just below a huge, orange dihedral that goes diagonally left (5.8+ s). Climb this corner/roof crack to its end (5.9+), then join an easy, short slab/corner to a huge walk-off ledge.

Descend the ledge west (4th class) or rappel from anchors at the top of other routes along the way.

A few of my variations are different than the description of this route in Rossiter's guidebook.

Protection

Gear to 4 inches with small nuts, RPs, and long runners.

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