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Routes in Main Wall

Astrophysics T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Center Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Charisma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cold Fusion T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
David Schwimmer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagles Are People Too T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Erickson's Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Get Shorty T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen To Like T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
October Surprise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Olympic Swimmer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On Ballet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P1 of Astrophysics (aka Bolt Cola) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pool Skimmer T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reamer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Resolution T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Shimmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slimmer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Talon Contest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Where Eagles Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Strappo & Simon Peck
Page Views: 641 total, 4/month
Shared By: steve dieckhoff on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route was reported in Neptune's book but not elsewhere I think.

To the left of Lichen to Like there is a large spike. This is the Reamer. The route goes to a stance atop this spike and - after placing a stopper blindly to protect the wildly committing moves - up to and over the bulge above.

I don't know whether this is an 's' or not because although the stopper is hard to place, and I am unsure of the size so I'm not guessing, it can be quite good. This section is quite reachy and thuggish.

I believe he did this in the late 80s or early 90s.

Protection

Wired stoppers & cams to 2", I think.

Photos

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Richard Radcliffe
Louisville, CO
Richard Radcliffe   Louisville, CO
I haven't been to Blob in quite a while, so I can't remember for sure, but this sounds suspiciously like a route I did with DH several years ago on Halloween day (maybe '99 or '00?). We had a belay (rat's nest of slings around a block) to the left of the spike and traversed above the spike to get to the blind stopper placement. Well, I never actually got on this pitch because my buddy fell about a hundred times before getting to the stopper placement (seems like he was falling onto a bolt). When he finally managed to make it over, he put in a very small nut and decided to weight it to see if it might hold. Turns out the answer was no. His static body weight alone dislodged a large block which came crashing down and almost killed DP who was at a bolted belay one pitch down (that's another story...). DH fell onto the Reamer spike. He didn't get horribly hurt, but was feeling bad enough to call it a day. After getting off, DP and I had a fine time on the sport routes in the right gully. DH was content to take a bunch of vitamin I and just watch... Sep 6, 2007