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Routes in Main Wall

Astrophysics T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Center Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Charisma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cold Fusion T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
David Schwimmer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eagles Are People Too T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Erickson's Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Get Shorty T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen To Like T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
October Surprise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Olympic Swimmer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
On Ballet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P1 of Astrophysics (aka Bolt Cola) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pool Skimmer T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Reamer, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Resolution T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Shimmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simmer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slimmer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Talon Contest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Where Eagles Dare T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Dan Hare and Susan Simpson, 1996.
Page Views: 1,902 total, 9/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The first bolt is about 20ft or so off the deck so bring a small cam, but it's easy ground up to the bolt. The crux is a pull over the bulge toward the end of the route.

Protection

QDs plus some small cams to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.9
It's at least 30 ft to the first bolt, so a couple small cams are suggested to protect against groundfall. Dec 11, 2014
justin hausmann
Fort collins
justin hausmann   Fort collins
Fun routes, though I thought this and the routes to the right were bolted strangely. Some bolts where close to protectable cracks while right after that, on blank unprotectable faces, there were not bolts. Shorter people also have to pull the harder moves, slightly run out before clipping. I should have saved a 0.1 perhaps before reaching the bolt over the crux. Nov 17, 2013
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Ken Cangi   Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.9
I liked this route better than Simmer. The line was more direct, and the moves through the roof were more interesting. Nov 15, 2007
On 10/28/2004, Dale Haas and I removed the smash (lap) links at the anchor and replaced them with 3/8" quicklinks and Fixe SS rappel rings. Also, we tightened the nuts on all four of the bolts which protect this route.

This work was supported by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Oct 31, 2004
Easy to protect up to the first bolt with a small TCU and/or stopper. I found the roof on this route (climbed on the left side) much more fun and esthetic than that on neighboring Simmer. Oct 21, 2004
Climbed this on 5/4/02. The nut on the second hanger was unscrewed to the point of nearly falling off. I tightened it by hand, but that won't last long. As far as the bulge goes, we did it both ways, finding that going right was easier climbing but made clipping the bolt harder. May 6, 2002
At the bulge slightly below the end of the route, where it gets steepest, there are good holds on the right. I've seen folks go left (as shown with the red line), and I have gone right myself. Any comments on this variation? Will Burrows Feb 12, 2002