The steep crux corner on the first pitch: fun stemming and jamming with an airy step left at the top.

All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Blob Rock Area > Blob Rock > Main Wall > On Ballet (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

The steep crux corner on the first pitch: fun stemming and jamming with an airy step left at the top.

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First pitch.

Bruce Hildenbrand starting up the third pitch.

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Ron Olsen

Oct 27, 2004

“The steep crux corner on the first pitch: fun stemming and jamming with an airy step left at the top.”

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Nearby Photos

Essential protection.

On Ballet, showing two ways to climb the first pitch:<br>
<br>
Right variation: Climb the initial corner and go up a slab to a corner with a thin crack. Place a green Alien and climb the corner (7 to 8) to the steep right-facing corner that ends the pitch.<br>
<br>
Left variation: Climb the initial corner and angle left to the wall. Place a red Alien and crank left onto a slab (7 to 8). Climb a white dike to the steep right-facing corner that ends the pitch.<br>
This variation shares some ground with the first pitch of October Surprise.<br>
<br>
Both variations are about the same difficulty; take your pick.<br>

On Ballet as viewed from the approach trail. Scramble up to a small ledge to start the climb. At the top, traverse right to the rappel descent, or scramble left to the walk-off.

Dave Holliday and Chris Grosshans finishing up pitch 1 on a beautiful Colorado autumn morning.

3rd pitch.

Nearing the top of the first pitch.

Starting the second pitch.

Approaching the first belay.

First pitch.

The steep crux corner on the first pitch: fun stemming and jamming with an airy step left at the top.

Bruce Hildenbrand starting up the third pitch.

Bruce Hildenbrand belaying at the top of the first pitch.

On Ballet viewed from the approach trail.<br>
<br>
Approach: scramble up a ramp to a small ledge and set up an anchor.<br>
<br>
Pitch 1: climb a thin crack in a corner, then work left and climb a slab. Climb a steep corner with a hand crack and move left to a good belay ledge.<br>
<br>
Pitch 2: traverse right and climb a right-facing corner to a slab. Angle left up the slab to a chimney/gully, and continue up to a 2-bolt anchor.<br>
<br>
Pitch 3: Move right and climb a flake with a wide crack, then up a slab to a big ledge.<br>
<br>
Rappel descent (easier): traverse right on the ledge to a 2-bolt rappel anchor with slings, then do two rappels to the gully by Bolt Cola.<br>
<br>
Walk-off descent (longer): traverse left across chimney, then continue left on ledges until it's possible to down-climb to easier terrain.

On Ballet viewed from the start of the route.<br>
<br>
Approach: Scramble up a ramp to a small ledge and set up an anchor. <br>
<br>
Pitch 1: Climb a thin crack in a corner, step left and climb a slab, then climb a steep corner with a hand crack and move left to a good belay ledge.<br>
<br>
Pitch 2: Traverse right and climb a right-facing corner to a slab. Angle left up the slab to a chimney/gully and continue to a 2-bolt anchor.

Third pitch.

The exposed but easy start to the second pitch.

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