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Routes in Central Chimney Area

Central Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Radlands of Infinity, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tempest T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Joyce & Richard Rossiter
Page Views: 2,479 total, 13/month
Shared By: slevin on Aug 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

From the Central Chimney, scramble to a nice stance at a flake-spike. Climb a short, right-facing corner, then follow bolts up a desperate stretch of high-angle slab work. A few of the flakes have snapped, possibly altering the grade.

Pitch 2 takes a thin seam (gear) to some more bolts and the top. This pitch is good 5.12 and sports some friable rock if you grab holds blindly. There is a two-bolt anchor on top.

Protection

A mixed route, mostly bolt-protected, but several wireds and TCUs are required, as is gear for the initial anchor (hand-size cams).
Bit scabby, so four stars might be a stretch. Otherwise a classic "Tiny Dancer" affair. It's completely reasonable to climb the route as one pitch (and worthwhile, since the "second" pitch is not trivial). With a 70 meter rope, it's just !barely! possible to lower from the top of the route back to the base.

No gear is needed for the belay area, it's expansive and comfortable.

A red C3 is nice below the first anchor (seemed like an offset yellow/red X4, or blue/yellow Metolius would be ideal).

A #0.3 C4 and/or #0.4 C4 before the first bolt on the "second" pitch.

And a #0.75 C4 and #0.5 C4 protect the last 25 feet.

No other gear is necessary. Oct 31, 2017
All the bolts on both pitches have been replaced. 100% of the holes were able to be reused. Thanks to the BCC for the hardware; please support them if you don't already. Note for later: the left bolt on the P2 anchor is mixed metal; the bolt is plated and the hanger/ring is stainless. I'm not sure when this particular bolt was replaced, but it was probably done by Mark Rolofson in the early 2000s when he bolted the project to the left. That bolt will need upgrading long before all the others. The pins were also tapped back in. Dec 20, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Jason,
We (OK, more specifically *I*) broke some holds off when we were on it in 2010. Mar 16, 2015
I first did this route over 10 years ago and got on it again yesterday. I didn't remember the rock quality coming into question before, but yesterday I was surprised by how many edges flaked off, both for hands and feet. I didn't remember it being friable, but I must have broke a dozen holds yesterday (not that there's much to break on this route). The climbing is still good and hard, but actually after doing it twice yesterday, I'm not convinced more holds won't snap off in the future. Mar 15, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
I tried this thing in stiff shoes - I felt I was not getting enough contact & spun off the edges a tiny bit. Super tight, somewhat edgy shoes might have served better.
This is the sort of climb that would be awfully hard to flash - some of the sequences are just too hard to try to reverse and are inobvious. Best of luck - even the "5.11" moves are hard. Aug 1, 2010
If you like this, check these out: "CO Northern Front Range 5.12 Pure Slab Trilogy" (my suggestions and all non-Splatte routes).

#1 is Between Nothingness and Eternity at Greyrock.
#2 is Frisky Puppies at Lumpy Ridge.
#3 is Blood For Oil at Combat Rock. Jan 29, 2010
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
My comment was not in any way intended as a dig at Steve, nor did I think his comments a sandbag. I was trying to get at the nature of how to tackle the nearly vertical smears. I was breaking in a pair of Mad Rocks, and they just seemed too stiff to balance the need for some edging and a whole lot more smearing. The Miura sounds good. Even on a nearly vertical wall, if you intend to smear, then those heels will need to drop. That means milking the "edges" off the side of the shoe. I think that the other point is this. If you are looking for a project somewhere in this difficulty range, then Radlands would be a bad choice. It is just too hard to work those sharp crimps in any more than a couple of trys. By contrast, the harder lines at Security or Anarchy Wall in Clear Creek won't wreck your hands and will be nearly as inspiring as Radlands (well, not quite). Moving quickly through the crimps seems to be important. The opening is awkward, but it won't wreck you. That reduces the hard stuff to 20 to 25 feet on the slab, but this is all sharp stuff. I don't know how Mark could be so enthusiastic about Radlands. As I was following him up this first pitch, I had to clean off the blood just to use the holds!! Jan 27, 2004
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
Even having done a lot of bouldering at Flagstaff, I still cut my finger badly on one of the sharp edges above the third bolt. For what it's worth, I wore Miuras for the redpoint - seemed to edge and smear equally well. Jan 26, 2004
Mark Tarrant  
 
A note on gear for the first pitch: There are 2 fixed pins before the first bolt, so no gear is needed low down. I did get a pretty bomber off-set alien after the last bolt, before the anchor, and was glad to have gear for that final move. Wear any shoes you want, but go bouldering at Flag for about a month to get those babyskin tips hardened up for the sharp crimps at the crux. Pullup training won't help-just learn to trust your feet! Great route! Jan 26, 2004
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
For someone interested in doing this difficult line, here is an impression from someone with aveage flexibility and mortal skin. We approached Radlands with benefit of Steve Levin's comments and would do things differently in the future. First, Radlands is a slab, steep, but still a slab. Rather than using edging shoes, I think a slipper with some edging capability is recommended. Most of the edges you will find will be worked as smears and not edges. The bite is off the edge and in the middle of the foot pad. Second, go when it is cool, not too cold. Third, the crux edges are highly unpleasant. While Radlands may be a great tick, the climbing is not fun. One can find equally difficullt and classic "slabs" on Devil's Head that won't leave your fingers a bloody mess. Last, good hip flexibility is important. The edges are too thin to pull hard on, which means that most of the motion is going to come from the legs and feet, so that means turn-out, like a dancer. Even then the edges will be unpleasant. Frankly, I cannot imagine how this route would exist without chipping off the patina to reveal the microedges that it does have, and that means exposing clean, sharp edges that wear relentlessly on the tips. My hat is off to someone who can walk up to Radlands and just do it, however, if you are looking for something in this difficulty range, then there are other local climbs that would make the experience more enjoyable. Jan 19, 2004
OK. a little historical information is needed here. This line was first toproped by myself with Steve Ilg and Joyce (who was still my wife). We came back and worked out the pro/bolts and set it up. Steve never returned.The FA was made by Joyce and me. Joyce led the first pitch with no falls and no hangs, and I managed as well on the second pitch. All the bolts were placed by myself, as usual. Joyce never placed a bolt in her whole life, but was an amazing climber, posessing strength, courage and skill, powered by an indomitable will. Apr 30, 2003
Dan Levison
Boulder, CO
Dan Levison   Boulder, CO
The second pitch feels harder than the first pitch, which I've seen rated anywhere from 12b to 13a depening on the age of the guide book and the sunsequent author. Excellent climb -- a highly coveted redpoint in my oponion even if it's considered a dreaded slab. Aug 6, 2002
Although a tough route to recruit partners, this line is a classic. A crisp edging shoe, impeccable balance, and some crimp strength are key to sending this route. Aug 2, 2002