Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Todd Gordon , Cyndie Bransford, Jim Angione, Dave Evens & Marge Floyd, June 1989
Page Views: 1,319 total · 7/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Feb 15, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is to the left of "Feltoneon Physics". Look for the bolt about fifteen feet up. After reaching the bolt, move right and up to enter the crack on "Feltoneon Physics". Continue up FP. This is an excellent route that I regret I'd not climbed before. You'll need your puny wires to protect the moves to the bolt. Further, it's a bit decomposed below the bolt so don't yank off any of those great looking holds. Be sure to finish with the overhang at the top; it's tricky but interesting. If you're a wuss, you can bypass it to the right; in which case, you'll feel dissatisfied with yourself and have many sleepless nights nagged by low self-regard.

Protection

Standard rack including the wee wires.

Photos

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C Miller
CA
  5.9+
C Miller   CA  
  5.9+
A fun diversion when at Lemmingway, but three stars? Best climbed while waiting for the true three star routes. Feb 25, 2004
Gunkswest
CA
 
Gunkswest   CA  
 
There used to be a fixed pin or two before the bolt. These are now gone.

The best bits of crack leading up to the bolt (where the pin[s] were) is parallel-sided, and unfortunately, smaller than the smallest BD 3 cam units (grey and purple).

Heaven help you if you came off above the bolt and it failed, as the nuts leading up to the bolt likely wouldn't save you...

At the top of the vertical crack system (shared by this route and Feltonian Physics), many people go up and left, to finish on Poodlesby/Coyote Bait/et al. May 3, 2016