All Locations > California > Joshua Tree Natio… > Lost Horse Area > Hemingway Buttress > Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)
Avg: 2.4 from 215 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft|
|FA:||John Long, Rick Accomazzo & Richard Harrison 2/73|
|Page Views:||5,998 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Rob "rk" Kalinowski on Jan 3, 2002|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis route is the small right facing dihedral/ big crack just to the left of Pigs in Heat, which makes it two routes to the left of White Lightnig. A good alternative when waiting for White Lighting, as it is the same grade, however the climbing here is more varied and less straight forward. It is bascially the next big crack to the left of While Lightning, the one that opens up to a wide chimney about 2/3 the way up.
Start up the right facing dihedral/crack and place bomber gear. Make a few delicate face moves (7) and get up into the chimney. This looks intimidating, but don't worry, you can do it. Move towards the rear of the chimney, and begin up it. Place a small cam if you want near the back as you move up. The moves are supringly good. Use your feet and chimney!!! Move up and out to the left where you should be able to place a #3 cam to ease the mind. Move up past a tree, and into another chimney. I went up the the right out of this, or you can go underneath and then up. (watch rope drag!!). You can belay from the ledge on top (a bit to the right) and do the double rope rap above and right of White Lightning. The varied climbing here will toughen you up and make White Lightning easier, and also get you in a Chimney while you wait for the classic. Not a bad climb here!