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Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)

Ant Farm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coyote Bait T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dung Fu T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feltonian Physics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Funky Dung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Years T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horn Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Man's Best Friend T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overseer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pig in Heat T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Poodles are People Too T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poodlesby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prepackaged T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roadrunner, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Rock Wren T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sea Monkeys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Smoke-a-Bowl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Such a Poodle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
White Lightning T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Darryl Nakahira and Randy Vogel, November 1982
Page Views: 601 total, 3/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Nov 5, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Warning: this route includes a 30 foot runout, with occasional 5.6 or 5.7 moves. This runout starts where the thin crack runs out, about 35 feet off the deck. A climber falling from the upper part of this section could easily end up decking out after 50-60 feet.

Okay, now that I've said that, I actually had fun on this route. It's likely to be open, even when adjacent routes are queued up. The thin crack is quite enjoyable 5.8+, and protects adequately. And the runout is sure to make you forget whatever else is on your mind.

Second warning: towards the top of the runout, pay careful attention to folks descending from the rappel station above Poodlesby.

Obligatory favorite story: so there I am, 60 feet off the deck, with my last piece 25 feet below me. A party of four is rapping past me, and I'm hanging out waiting for them to clear the way so I can proceed towards what I hope will be a solid placement. The last rappeller doesn't see me until the last minute, and is startled by my presence here on the rap route. She asks how I'm doing, to which I reply "I'm fine; just don't kick me." From below, my belayer yells up "Did you say 'take'?" I'm sure that folks as far away as the Hidden Valley Campground looked up and wondered who was yelling "NO" at the top of their lungs, with terror in their voice. Fortunately, my belayer did NOT pull me to the ground, and we finished the climb without incident.

Protection

Standard rack. The thin crack protects reasonably with small to medium gear, with a solid smallish stopper where the crack runs out at about 35 feet. From here, there's about a 30 foot runout to a shallow pink tricam placement, then ten more feet to anything really solid.

Photos

mhagny
 
mhagny  
 
I found the protection to be quite adequate and no need for an R rating. However, I climbed the route as drawn by Miramontes in his 2011 guidebook, which had me going straight up the face when the crack petered out (10b by J-tree standards), rather than angling off to the R as shown in the above drawing.

Great fun! Was interesting the entire 100 feet. Oct 14, 2016