Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob & Yvonne Gaines, November 1995
Page Views: 747 total · 5/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Nov 10, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

An OK route that is worth doing once. The rock quality is a little suspect, but the ease of access and descent make it worthwhile if Hemingway is crawling with folks. A short 5.7 crack leads to a roof & arete. Clip the bolt on the face to the left (not the bolt to the right, as that's for Smoke-a-Bowl), and then climb the bolted face and arete to the top. The crux is the move right past the first bolt.

Toproping The Roadrunner (11c) would be a very worthwhile diversion after climbing this route.

Location

Walk left on a semi-trail from the main Hemingway Buttress area (passing below Overseerer, etc.). The trail will pass below a jumble of rocks with a sloping ledge on top. Scramble up to the ledge. The unmistakable arcing, thin crack of The Roadrunner is on the face just to the left of the route. Start up the thin crack (shared with Smoke-A-Bowl) and then onto the face.

Protection

Nuts and/or TCUs and quickdraws. Chains on top.

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
This is a fun climb on good rock, and although near the more popular Hemingway routes, it can be a nice alternative to the crowds found nearby. Dec 13, 2006
Murf  
Second should be solid, lack of pro after the 3rd bolt means a huge swing if the follower should fall ( although the moves aren't at grade ). Oct 1, 2007