Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)

Ant Farm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coyote Bait T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dung Fu T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feltonian Physics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Funky Dung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Years T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horn Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Man's Best Friend T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overseer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pig in Heat T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Poodles are People Too T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poodlesby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prepackaged T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roadrunner, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Rock Wren T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sea Monkeys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Smoke-a-Bowl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Such a Poodle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
White Lightning T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob & Yvonne Gaines, November 1995
Page Views: 677 total, 5/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Nov 10, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

An OK route that is worth doing once. The rock quality is a little suspect, but the ease of access and descent make it worthwhile if Hemingway is crawling with folks. A short 5.7 crack leads to a roof & arete. Clip the bolt on the face to the left (not the bolt to the right, as that's for Smoke-a-Bowl), and then climb the bolted face and arete to the top. The crux is the move right past the first bolt.

Toproping The Roadrunner (11c) would be a very worthwhile diversion after climbing this route.

Location

Walk left on a semi-trail from the main Hemingway Buttress area (passing below Overseerer, etc.). The trail will pass below a jumble of rocks with a sloping ledge on top. Scramble up to the ledge. The unmistakable arcing, thin crack of The Roadrunner is on the face just to the left of the route. Start up the thin crack (shared with Smoke-A-Bowl) and then onto the face.

Protection

Nuts and/or TCUs and quickdraws. Chains on top.

Photos

Murf  
Second should be solid, lack of pro after the 3rd bolt means a huge swing if the follower should fall ( although the moves aren't at grade ). Oct 1, 2007
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
This is a fun climb on good rock, and although near the more popular Hemingway routes, it can be a nice alternative to the crowds found nearby. Dec 13, 2006