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Rock Wren
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.1 from 14
votes
Routes in Hemingway Buttress - E Face L
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Ant Farm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Coyote Bait T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dung Fu T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Feltonian Physics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Funky Dung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gift Wrapped TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Golden Years T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Hernie, Hernie, Hernie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Horn Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Man's Best Friend T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Merry-Go-Round Broke Down T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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More Funky Than Junky T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old Man and the Arete, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Overseer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Overseer Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pig in Heat T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Poodles are People Too T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Poodlesby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Prepackaged T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roadrunner, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Rock Wren T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sea Monkeys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Smoke-a-Bowl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Such a Poodle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sun Also Rises, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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White Lightning T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02386, -116.17782 |
| FA: | Bob & Yvonne Gaines, November 1995 |
| Page Views: | 1,739 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Laakmann on Nov 10, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
An OK route that is worth doing once. The rock quality is a little suspect, but the ease of access and descent make it worthwhile if Hemingway is crawling with folks. A short 5.7 crack leads to a roof & arete. Clip the bolt on the face to the left (not the bolt to the right, as that's for Smoke-a-Bowl), and then climb the bolted face and arete to the top. The crux is the move right past the first bolt.
Toproping The Roadrunner (11c) would be a very worthwhile diversion after climbing this route.
Location
Walk left on a semi-trail from the main Hemingway Buttress area (passing below Overseerer, etc.). The trail will pass below a jumble of rocks with a sloping ledge on top. Scramble up to the ledge. The unmistakable arcing, thin crack of The Roadrunner is on the face just to the left of the route. Start up the thin crack (shared with Smoke-A-Bowl) and then onto the face.
3 Comments