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> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Lost Horse Rdsi…
> Hemingway Buttress
> Hemingway Buttress (E…
Rock Wren
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.2 from 12
votes
Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)
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Ant Farm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Coyote Bait T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dung Fu T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Feltonian Physics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Funky Dung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gift Wrapped TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Golden Years T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Hernie, Hernie, Hernie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Horn Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Man's Best Friend T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Merry-Go-Round Broke Down T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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More Funky Than Junky T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Old Man and the Arete, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Overseer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Overseer Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pig in Heat T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Poodles are People Too T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Poodlesby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Prepackaged T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roadrunner, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Rock Wren T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sea Monkeys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Smoke-a-Bowl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Such a Poodle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sun Also Rises, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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White Lightning T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Bob & Yvonne Gaines, November 1995 |
| Page Views: | 1,647 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Laakmann on Nov 10, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
An OK route that is worth doing once. The rock quality is a little suspect, but the ease of access and descent make it worthwhile if Hemingway is crawling with folks. A short 5.7 crack leads to a roof & arete. Clip the bolt on the face to the left (not the bolt to the right, as that's for Smoke-a-Bowl), and then climb the bolted face and arete to the top. The crux is the move right past the first bolt.
Toproping The Roadrunner (11c) would be a very worthwhile diversion after climbing this route.
Toproping The Roadrunner (11c) would be a very worthwhile diversion after climbing this route.
Location
Walk left on a semi-trail from the main Hemingway Buttress area (passing below Overseerer, etc.). The trail will pass below a jumble of rocks with a sloping ledge on top. Scramble up to the ledge. The unmistakable arcing, thin crack of The Roadrunner is on the face just to the left of the route. Start up the thin crack (shared with Smoke-A-Bowl) and then onto the face.
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