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Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)

Ant Farm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coyote Bait T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dung Fu T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feltonian Physics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Funky Dung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gift Wrapped TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Golden Years T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horn Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Man's Best Friend T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Man and the Arete, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Overseer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pig in Heat T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Poodles are People Too T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poodlesby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prepackaged T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roadrunner, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Rock Wren T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sea Monkeys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Smoke-a-Bowl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Such a Poodle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sun Also Rises, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
White Lightning T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dave Evans, Margie Floyd, and Jim Angione, April 1989
Page Views: 1,668 total · 12/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jul 31, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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22 Opinions

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Description [Edit]

This route climbs a crack past the right end of a small roof, then meanders a bit as it goes on to the top. It is a very nice mixed face and crack climb.

Location [Edit]

A short distance to the right of Poodles Are People Too.

Protection [Edit]

standard rack

Photos

T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
 
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
 
Nice climb if you're waiting for some of the more popular routes in this area. Liked this more than White Lightening actually.

BETA... Make sure to traverse right under the little lip that's below the big roof up top; I went too high and crossed under the big roof and the pro before the traverse up there is in a crumbly flake. Jun 8, 2011
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Recently did this route and I see that I made the mistake that TJ warned about with regard to going high and relying on a loose flake for protection. I suspect that way is quite intuitive so just realize that doing the traverse and roof may have to be done with essentially no pro. The climbing is fairly mellow up there, but use a light technique so as not to pull any loose stuff off of which there seems to be an abundance. Too bad cause it's quite fun climbing. Oct 8, 2014

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