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Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)

Ant Farm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coyote Bait T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dung Fu T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feltonian Physics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Funky Dung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Years T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horn Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Man's Best Friend T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overseer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pig in Heat T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Poodles are People Too T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poodlesby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prepackaged T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roadrunner, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Rock Wren T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sea Monkeys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Smoke-a-Bowl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Such a Poodle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
White Lightning T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: John Long and Kevin Worrall, December 1974
Page Views: 1,777 total, 11/month
Shared By: E. Ramos on Dec 3, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route starts just left of Overseer and goes up and left at the roof. After the roof you go straight up the crack to the top to set up an anchor.You can protect the crux at the roof by sticking a #4 way up in the crack. We removed the cam after pulling the crux to reduce rope drag.The pro is good on this climb, but everything sounds hollow. Nothing broke for us and I am a 200lb climber, so it is probably pretty solid.I gave it a star because I thought the crux was fun, bouldery and committing.Rap off right at the same rap anchors you use for White Lightning.

Protection

Gear up to Camalot #4. The #4 is what protects the crux with a long sling.

Photos

DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.8
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.8
Dare I say... I enjoyed this route MORE than White Lightning? Both are fun routes, but I really enjoyed the variety in this route. I agree that a #4 protects very well. Also suggest a healthy supply of 24"s. Have fun on this route! May 15, 2010
Bill Flaherty
Evergreen, CO
Bill Flaherty   Evergreen, CO
Another great line to hit on this incredible piece of rock. Be sure to do Prepackaged too. Mar 23, 2009
Isaac T.
Yokosuka, Japan
  5.7
Isaac T.   Yokosuka, Japan
  5.7
that sketchy flake is still there, I banged on it and the whole thing shifted someone needs to go out there and knock that thing off before it kills someone(I would have done it but there was a large party on Overseer so I just avoided it at all cost), super sketchy! Feb 1, 2009
Jonathan Bent
San Diego, CA
 
Jonathan Bent   San Diego, CA
 
Rock quality is kind of sketchy at the slightly overhanging arrete. Very hollow-sounding, and not great for pro placement. The piece I pulled out there could be removed by hanging on the large flake it was placed under--i.e. it bends away from the wall easily. Yikes... Oct 29, 2007
Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
 
Joe Keyser   Scottsdale, AZ
 
Although a short climb that smells a bit funky, this climb has some fun moves. I think it easily deserves 2 starts for the area. I didn't find a #4 camalot necessary at the crux, a #3 fits. Sep 9, 2006
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
  5.8
This is a fun climb - I'm suprised that it doesn't get climbed more or more stars. Although a #4 camalot protects the crux, it doesn't involve any offwidth moves. Try not to belly flop through the crux. Apr 18, 2006
Bo Johnston
  5.8
Bo Johnston  
  5.8
I remember this to be a fun route to try when finished with Overseer. Just leave an anchor atop Overseer and lead up Funky Dung and then head off to the rap anchors to the right. The rock quality wasn't really all that bad and the move around the lip is fun. Mar 7, 2005