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Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)

Ant Farm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coyote Bait T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dung Fu T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feltonian Physics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Funky Dung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gift Wrapped TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Golden Years T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horn Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Man's Best Friend T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Man and the Arete, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Overseer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pig in Heat T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Poodles are People Too T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poodlesby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prepackaged T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roadrunner, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Rock Wren T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sea Monkeys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Smoke-a-Bowl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Such a Poodle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sun Also Rises, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
White Lightning T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Randy Vogel & Charles Cole, February 1980
Page Views: 4,161 total · 24/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Feb 26, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is the obvious crack to the right of "Golden Years". You start off a block into a right facing corner. My advice here is to place your pro then layback the crack. Near the top, traverse right under an overhang then up again. Surmount the overhang at the top. Beginning this route via "Golden Years" is more interesting. One more thing, the overhang at the top is no more than 5.4; however, one must have the usual five senses.

Protection

standard rack

Photos

Woody Stark  
 
I'll use "Feltonian Physics" to make a couple of observations on technique and protection:(1) I seldom if ever see anyone using laybacks(liebacks)when that particular technique would be advantageous: the start on "Feltonian Physics" would be easier and more pleasant; the first ten feet or so of "Touch and GO" also; and, wandering off a bit, getting to "The Elephant's Ear" on the "Open Book" goes 5.7 as a layback.(2) On and off over the years, I've had cams pop on me that I felt were well placed. Last year in Colorado, I place the "ideal" cam in an "ideal" crack on an overhanging 10a and leaned back to take a rest; I took a twenty footer. I've gone back to carrying a few tri-cams; they take longer to place but are often much more reliable. They are also far superior in horizontal, flaring cracks. In Red Rocks, they can be placed quite nicely in the erosion holes that one often comes across. If you're concerned about them loosening up, set them hard and sling them. Last, they are cheap.(3) Small wires(I carry a mix.)seem to many young climbers a mystery. "You trust those?" I've heard a couple of times. Not only do I trust them, they expand your options for pro placement. Many times when wanting to place pro(and most definitely needing to place pro)I've fallen back on the wee wires as the only option and been damned happy to have them along. Jun 8, 2004
Randy
 
Randy  
 
A fun route. PS: I liked Woody's comments about using laybacks and a broader range of protection. Aug 28, 2005
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Fun climb with a lot of variety. The wide part might be a little tricky for some, although it's really not much (if any) harder than the first twenty feet of White Lightning. A #4 camalot comes in handy. Mar 24, 2008
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
I'll tell you what, coming out of the traverse into the crack between the two boulders on top was intimidating! I kept trying to mantel the ledge under the boulders but kept hitting my head on the roof they made. I was exhausted and just flopped my belly on the ledge and caught my breath while seeing what to do. I finally mantled the ledge with my right arm only, reached my left hand high in the crack and and let myself swing back under my hand jam and finished it. Kind of an advanced motion that I wasn't expecting on a 5.8. I loved the climb! Feb 3, 2009
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.9
Agreed, tricky, tricky finish. I found myself kneeling on the ledge below the final overhang and reaching up for a hand jam. What a great route! Lots of character and variety. Mar 26, 2010
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
If he was referring to the final moves between the two boulders at the top, Woody's comment that the overhang at the top is 5.4 is complete bullshit.

Never met Woody (RIP), but I've read enough objective opinions about the guy to guess he was something of a nut. I love his many contributions and comments on MP. Always a treat to stumble on one here. Take them with a grain of salt.

After you place a cam to protect the final moves, slot a nut or hex above the cam. Otherwise, your rope will stuff the cam deep into the crack as you belay your second. Jan 3, 2012
Drederek
  5.8
Drederek  
  5.8
I don't believe Woody was talking about going up a crack at the end but straight up over the roof instead of the second traverse shown in the beta photo by Blitzo. I'd say straight up is 5.4, and fun! Mar 31, 2012
Canon
  5.8
Canon  
  5.8
Chris D's advice to slot a nut to protect your cam on the final jams out of the cave is accurate! Spent a good 15 minutes retrieving a #5 master cam out of that stupid thing! Nov 17, 2012
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.8
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.8
I did this route yesterday. pulling the last moved required a #2 C4 I believe. I didn't use a nut or hex, but I did put a #3 c4 up top to prevent my rope from sliding into the crack to bring up my follower.

#4 c4 does help on the traverse to the right at the very end Feb 27, 2014
Jux Tolle
Los Angeles, CA
 
Jux Tolle   Los Angeles, CA
 
I used lots of nuts for the crack and some x4's or the top end. Broad range of protection is great. This was much stiffer than the 5.7's near by. Fun lead with a fun finish.

Also my cousin left some of my gear in. It was a size 10 hex or so. Please message me if you grab it.

Thanks

Joey May 12, 2015
steverett
San Diego, CA
  5.8-
steverett   San Diego, CA
  5.8-
Regarding the comments on the finish; you only need to do one traverse (at the first overhang), then you can top out straight over second overhang above the second vertical crack. The holds are there!

A #4 C4 at the second overhang is bomber and will give you the confidence to pull those exposed (but not hard) moves.

I wasn't sure where to go; I originally traversed right to the crack mentioned above (between two boulders, as shown in Blitzo's photo), but it looked harder than 5.8, so I went back and found the direct finish. Mar 20, 2017

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