Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Matt Cox, Randy Vogel & Jim Dutzi, February 1976 Direct start: Randy Vogel
Page Views: 905 total · 5/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Apr 25, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route begins in the narrow crack a few feet to the right of Dung Fu and meanders up the face between that route and White Lightning. There's one lonely bolt about halfway up that you'll be most grateful for, assuming you don't detatch one of the tired, old flakes you must pull on to attain the bolt. If you do remove one of the lower flakes, you will be divided in twain; and that will put a pall on the rest of day for your companions. The pro is somewhat rare and marginal; the face is gritty; the runouts exciting and memorable. After negotiating the final crack near the top--good pro here; finish directly up 5.8 friction. Don't spoil things at this point and desperately grasp for the upper crack on White Lightning. Do the honorable thing. Here comes the good part: you'll never have to lead this route again because none of your buds will dare to ask you.

Protection

standard rack, one bolt (3/8")

Photos

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Randy
Lassitude 33
  5.9+ X
Randy   Lassitude 33
  5.9+ X
FA: Matt Cox [that should explain everything], Randy Vogel and Jim Dutzi, February, 1976.

Actually, what Woody describes is the direct start to the route (10b) which was done a few years later (R.Vogel) and is unprotected. The direct start has the advantage of climbing up past the remants of the "Pig In Heat" flake before joining the original line.

To do the original route, you start on White Lightning and after 10 feet or so traverse out left onto the face. Done this way it is 5.9 R. I would bet that this route (done either way) has seen less than 10 ascents ever. Way to go Woody! Apr 28, 2004
C Miller
CA
  5.10b R
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b R
This is an overlooked route at Hemingway that is quite doable for those very solid at the grade. Keep in mind there's some large semi-attatched flakes and the bolt is still 1/4", but there's nothing a climber with a cool head and light feet should have trouble with. Note - if you plan on doing this route you may as well do the direct start. Two stars out of five. Mar 20, 2005
Randy
Lassitude 33
  5.9+ X
Randy   Lassitude 33
  5.9+ X
We did this route a few weeks ago (not direct start -- I was too wimpy). Still, plenty spicy, R/X. The bolt has been relaced with a nice solid 3/8" and small cams are quite helpful in protecting under some of the flakes. Apr 25, 2008
Mike Fogarty
La Quinta, CA
Mike Fogarty   La Quinta, CA
I remember I was not to fall! May 11, 2012
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
The direct start adds just the perfect amount of thin crack moves to really complete what is a super super fun route. Oct 12, 2015