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Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)

Ant Farm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Coyote Bait T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dung Fu T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feltonian Physics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Funky Dung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Years T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horn Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Man's Best Friend T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overseer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pig in Heat T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Poodles are People Too T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poodlesby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Prepackaged T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roadrunner, The T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Rock Wren T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sea Monkeys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Smoke-a-Bowl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Such a Poodle T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
White Lightning T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Darryl Nakahira, November 1982
Page Views: 1,623 total, 14/month
Shared By: 858jason on May 26, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start in right facing corner to left of Coyote Bait, go over roof than up face to another small roof.

Location

Rap with on 70 m or two 60 m on rap anchors to right of Poodles Are People Too.

Protection

Pro to 2.5

Photos

Matt Himmelstein
Orange, California
Matt Himmelstein   Orange, California
The traverse under the roof is really loose, with a large flake just one medium tug away from raining down. A safer finish (IMO) is to go left of the roof and traverse back right or finish on White Lightening to the left. Nov 7, 2016
Tony Whitney
Las Vegas, NV
Tony Whitney   Las Vegas, NV
This was a great route for a beginner to JT. A couple of things. The flake on the traverse below the second roof is really loose. Placements to protect the traverse are very insecure. Once traversing around right under the roof, there is a nice place to build an anchor and belay the second. The rap off is just around and up right. If you are top roping this route from the rap anchors, realize that the finish is not 5.6, it is way harder. Apr 6, 2015
Jux Tolle
Los Angeles, CA
Jux Tolle   Los Angeles, CA
This is pretty decent route to practice cam placements for entry level trad climbers. I used lots of runners to reduce the rope drag with X4s and camelots up to about a 2. I always finish it out with the 5.10b Poodles are People Too exit to the left. Finish out to the right and head over to the rap rings or make a U-turn and set up the top rope from the rap rings directly above the route.

If you are looking for some decent crack, I would skip this route and head to white lighting to the left a few meters. Mar 24, 2015
Donno
Newport Beach
Donno   Newport Beach
A bit runout on small pro at the top. Watch for rappellers coming right down on top of you. Oct 17, 2012