PRINT: Rock Climb Golden Years, Joshua Tree National Park

Golden Years

5.9+ R, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 2.1 from 13 votes
FA: Todd Gordon , Cyndie Bransford, Jim Angione, Dave Evens & Marge Floyd, June 1989
California > Joshua Tree NP > Lost Horse Area > Lost Horse Rdsi… > Hemingway Buttress > Hemingway Buttress -…

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This route is to the left of Feltoneon Physics. Look for the bolt about fifteen feet up. After reaching the bolt, move right and up to enter the crack on Feltoneon Physics. Continue up FP. You'll need your puny wires to protect the moves to the bolt. Further, it's a bit decomposed below the bolt so don't yank off any of those great looking holds. Be sure to finish with the overhang at the top; it's tricky but interesting. If you're a wuss, you can bypass it to the right.

Protection

Standard rack including the wee wires.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA

5.9+

A fun diversion when at Lemmingway, but three stars? Best climbed while waiting for the true three star routes. Feb 25, 2004

Gunkswest
CA

There used to be a fixed pin or two before the bolt. These are now gone.

The best bits of crack leading up to the bolt (where the pin[s] were) is parallel-sided, and unfortunately, smaller than the smallest BD C3s (grey and purple).

Heaven help you if you came off above the bolt and it failed, as the nuts leading up to the bolt likely wouldn't save you...

At the top of the vertical crack system (shared by this route and Feltonian Physics), many people go up and left, to finish on Poodlesby/Coyote Bait/et al. May 3, 2016