Avg: 4 from 34 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||FFA: H. Barber, A. Greene, '78|
|Page Views:||7,579 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jul 4, 2001|
|Admins:||Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
The dihedral at the right hand edge of the right-most of these colums, beginning as a ever-steepening slab is "Rangers Are People Too." The next crack left of this, on the left side of the right-most short column, is the fist pitch of Driect SouthWest.
P1: (5.7, 80')Climb the crack described above for 80' to a ledge with a fixed belay.
P2: (5.11b, 100')This is the route 6 pillars to the right of the dark, left-facing dihedral at the right hand side of the attached photo.Step right on the ledge and get into a left-facing corner with an off-fingers to fingers in the corner, the crux is 25' fromt he top or so- more sustained than it is technically difficult. Belay from the fixed anchors. A single 60M or 70M rope should get you down in 2 raps from here.
P3: (5.9, 150')You need 2 ropes to continue... I have not done the 3rd pitch, but reportedly the climb continues up a crack on the left for a short while before traversing right, to keep the difficulty at 5.9... then continues up for 150' total. From there you can climb one of a few easier systems to reach the top (5.7, 70')