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Routes in Durrance Approach

Black-Jones Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Centennial A2
Direct Southwest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double-Edged Blade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Durrance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fritz's Fantasy S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Late for Dinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Liken Lichen T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lovely Liana T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manifest Destiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
P.O.T.C. T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo- Wiessner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rangers Are People Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tunnel Vision T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wiessner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Frank Sanders
Page Views: 6,232 total · 36/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 27, 2003
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A great face climb up the Wiessner Column. Sustained throughout with a handful of cruxy moves and occasional rests. There are a few loose flakes to beware of. Overall it is excellent.

Belay from a bolted station a ways below the column and solo up wide cracks (or bring some large pieces) to the first bolt. Resist the temptation to stem to the neighboring columns!

Protection

12 draws + anchor.

Photos

Todd Felix
  5.11-
Todd Felix  
  5.11-
Great route! I underestimated it because I expected 5.10b. Sustained. Thoughtful. Long. About halfway up I muttered "Apperently Ol' Fritz didn't fantasize about rests!" Then found some rests on the second half. It sure felt like 5.11 climbing to me. And we had just climbed Soler Eclipse the day before, so we had a good comparison.

Perhaps stemming will keep the grade down to 5.10b, but the arête feels like 5.11 to me. Oct 14, 2016
Jason Todd
Cody, WY
Jason Todd   Cody, WY
Yes. You have to climb the Durrance Approach pitch, but it is plenty easy if Fritz's Fantasy is your goal. Mar 27, 2016
Alex Zucca
University Heights
Alex Zucca   University Heights
Do you have to climb other pitches to get to the base of this route? Mar 26, 2016
doliver  
Climb this route as a link up with Wiessner. climbed the wide crack the whole way up to the Durrance rap bolts, then up the corner crack to the belay bolts. Stout wide crack over there but if your into that sort of thing its pretty rad, grade still felt like 5.10 OW, could be done on gear but it have to be big bro's and #6's. Didn't have a guide book so I was just going for what looked cool, ended up climbing a pretty sweet final direct pitch after the meadows with some fun roof moves. May 23, 2015
Jeff McLeod
  5.10+
Jeff McLeod  
  5.10+
What an absolute pleasure to climb, although I cheated and stemmed out a couple times. 5.10b my ass! This is a stout 5.10 face climb with strenuous, delicate moves. It seems to go on forever. If you're not comfortable soloing 5.6 or so to get to the first bolt, bring some wide gear for the offwidth. It took longer than I expected. Jul 22, 2013
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
  5.10d
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
  5.10d
Super fun, technical climb. It'll remind you that you can climb on super tiny holds, or no holds at all. Also, you can place a .75 or #1 camalot in a horizontal crack between the 11th and 12th bolts. If you're short and can't reach the 12th bolt from the good stance, you'll be glad if you had placed that cam. Sep 25, 2010
tooTALLtim
Boulder, CO
 
tooTALLtim   Boulder, CO
 
It is a bit easy to stay in the OW at the beginning (on the right side of the pillar), but was very happy I got on the face after the second bolt.

Exciting face moves and strenuous mantles!

I'd also swear there were around 14-15 bolts. I could also be crazy. Sep 22, 2009
Kyle P.
Lander, WY
Kyle P.   Lander, WY
Stayin on the column isn't contrived. The holds on the climb force you to traverse left/right on the column several times. Getting into the cracks next to the climb could be trouble because you wouldn't be able to reach the bolts, and getting back to them will wear you out. Best to stick to what you have in front of you. Hardest .10 I've done in Wyoming. Feb 21, 2009
Is staying on the pillar contrived or does stemming make the route harder? If you can easily stem to other good holds and it keeps the route in the grade or makes it easier then stem, otherwise it is contrived and does not deserve 4 stars. Get your second to clean off the loose flakes next time. Apr 13, 2006

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