Type: Trad
FA: Ray Northcutt, Harvey Carter, 8/10/54.
Page Views: 4,002 total · 27/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Climb up and right then back left, from the eyebolts to the base of two broken columns. Climb up (5.7) and belay on top of the higher column.
Climb a crack (5.8), straight up passing two current bushes.
Climb up to the west end of The Meadows.
Climb Meadows finish to the top.

Protection

Pro to 4".

Photos

John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
  5.8
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
  5.8
A VERY nice route with good protection. Don't forget your #4! Oct 30, 2006
It's not unreasonable to bring a number 5 camalot for the second pitch. I brought double 4's and one 5. I walked the 5 up the wide section towards the top, placing it three or four times before leaving it. A number four will fit really deep in the offwidth/squeeze section in a couple of spots, but you might have a twenty foot or more runout if you do not have anything bigger, especially if you try to climb the face outside the crack as my second did. All in all it is a good route and very enjoyable. Sep 19, 2011
Dani Goodson
  5.8
Dani Goodson  
  5.8
Just a note...on the second pitch, make sure to follow the crack straight up from the anchors and over a slight bulge instead of going around the (seemingly easier) ramp to the right...too much rope drag and the belayer had to walk out and remove the cam...yikes. Otherwise, really cool route with great, airy stemming! Mar 22, 2012
Clay Cundy
Gillette, WY
 
Clay Cundy   Gillette, WY
 
Great climb with lots of different techniques involved, some stemming, some off-width, some traversing a little face climbing it really mixes it up. Feb 17, 2013
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.8 PG13
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
  5.8 PG13
Really like this route-- particularly the top of the stembox first pitch and all of the the grunty but wonderful 2nd pitch. Lots of really good crimps hidden way in the back of that chimney Feb 21, 2014
Nick Tripp
  5.8
Nick Tripp  
  5.8
Waiting on Durrance when my friend suggested we skip the line to climb this. An awesome alternative!

I had a single #3 and #4, so had to BUMP them up the whole second pitch; I'd say bring double #4s. Jul 17, 2017