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Routes in Durrance Approach

Black-Jones Direct T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Centennial A2
Direct Southwest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Double-Edged Blade T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
Durrance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fritz's Fantasy S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Late for Dinner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2+
Liken Lichen T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lovely Liana T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manifest Destiny T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
P.O.T.C. T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pseudo- Wiessner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rangers Are People Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tunnel Vision T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wiessner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad
FA: Ray Northcutt, Harvey Carter, 8/10/54.
Page Views: 3,463 total, 26/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006
Admins: Peter Gram, Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Climb up and right then back left, from the eyebolts to the base of two broken columns. Climb up (5.7) and belay on top of the higher column.
Climb a crack (5.8), straight up passing two current bushes.
Climb up to the west end of The Meadows.
Climb Meadows finish to the top.

Protection

Pro to 4".

Photos

Nick Tripp
  5.8
Nick Tripp  
  5.8
Waiting on Durrance when my friend suggested we skip the line to climb this. An awesome alternative!

I had a single #3 and #4, so had to BUMP them up the whole second pitch; I'd say bring double #4s. Jul 17, 2017
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.8 PG13
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
  5.8 PG13
Really like this route-- particularly the top of the stembox first pitch and all of the the grunty but wonderful 2nd pitch. Lots of really good crimps hidden way in the back of that chimney Feb 21, 2014
Clay Cundy
Gillette, WY
 
Clay Cundy   Gillette, WY
 
Great climb with lots of different techniques involved, some stemming, some off-width, some traversing a little face climbing it really mixes it up. Feb 17, 2013
Dani Goodson
  5.8
Dani Goodson  
  5.8
Just a note...on the second pitch, make sure to follow the crack straight up from the anchors and over a slight bulge instead of going around the (seemingly easier) ramp to the right...too much rope drag and the belayer had to walk out and remove the cam...yikes. Otherwise, really cool route with great, airy stemming! Mar 22, 2012
It's not unreasonable to bring a number 5 camalot for the second pitch. I brought double 4's and one 5. I walked the 5 up the wide section towards the top, placing it three or four times before leaving it. A number four will fit really deep in the offwidth/squeeze section in a couple of spots, but you might have a twenty foot or more runout if you do not have anything bigger, especially if you try to climb the face outside the crack as my second did. All in all it is a good route and very enjoyable. Sep 19, 2011
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
  5.8
John Gunnels   Gillette, WY
  5.8
A VERY nice route with good protection. Don't forget your #4! Oct 30, 2006